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Drink of the Week: Sycamore Brewing’s Paloma Gose

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5 percent ABV. $3.50 for a pint can at Craft and Draft on Devine Street.

A common complaint I’ve heard on local the beer scene is that taprooms and bars are closed due to COVID-19 when the weather is so beautiful seemingly every night. It’s especially grating after the winter we just endured, the wettest in Columbia history.

These temperate days should have been a boon for bars and breweries, but, like everything else, we wait for a time when coronavirus is in the past — and social distancing with it — to enjoy beers outside with our friends. But while we can’t can’t enjoy our favorite brew spots in person, that doesn’t mean our drinks can’t match the changing season.

One of my favorites this spring is the Paloma Gose from Sycamore Brewing out of Charlotte. It’s a wonderfully sweet, easy drinking iteration of the style, with a lime-grapefruit tartness that lingers throughout the entire beer, from nose to finish.

Sycamore says a pinch of Himalayan pink sea salt is added to the gose, but it’s unnoticeable in adding any saltiness. Instead, I find it works as a flavor enhancer, balancing the agave used for sweetness. Unlike a classic gose, the tartness — while always noticeable, particularly the lime on the finish — plays in the background and the agave is prominent throughout. The result is an accessible version of the typically salt-and-coriander-forward German brew, one that might please people who turn away from more traditionally sharp executions.

The citrusy beer is available in artfully designed pint-sized cans at Craft and Draft on Devine, but a worker tells me the shop will have it on tap soon. Drink up, and enjoy the weather as best you can.

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