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Drink of the Week: Stillwater Artisanal/Holoholo Brewing’s Last Daze of Disco

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6.5 percent ABV. $3.74 for a 16-ounce can at Craft and Draft (2706 Devine St., 803-764-2575, craftanddraftbeer.com).

My beer consumption goes in trends. For three weeks, I’ll drink exclusively sours. A year ago, when I lived in the Midwest, it was stouts, porters and all things dark. Like everyone, I’ve had my IPA phase, exploring the hoppy style’s various offshoots. As of late, it’s been a spree of Belgian-style beers. Their spice and orange peel flavor — along with a lack of bitterness — make them an ideal summer drink.

Idiosyncratic and nomadic national brewery Stillwater Artisanal’s Last Daze of Disco is broadly classified as a farmhouse ale, but it fits snugly into the Belgian niche that’s captured my interest as of late. Made in conjunction with yet-to-open Hawaii operation Holoholo Brewing, the somewhat cloudy ale matches the desired flavor profile well, sans citrus.

The nose of the beer plays the role of trickster. The almost mellow pungency misleads, fostering expectations of an expressive, lively drink. Instead, the first sip of the beer reveals a well-rounded, cloudlike body that coats the mouth. The taste is earthy and spicy. It’s an accessible beer with enough nuance to keep things interesting.

Like many watering holes, Craft and Draft has begun to reopen for visitors, but on a reservation-only basis. For those uninterested in mingling, the bottle shop still stands out for its wide selection and helpful staff who can point you in the right direction for to-go beer.

David Clarey joined Free Times in November 2019 as a food and news writer. He's constantly fighting competing desires to try cooking food at home and spending his entire paycheck on Columbia restaurants.

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