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Bite of the Week: The Piper at Enzo’s Delicatessen

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$11.99. 2002 Greene St. enzoscolumbia.com.

Columbia has never had a shortage of sandwich shops. From Grouchos to Andy’s to Beezer’s and everything in between, it’s not hard to find a sub in town.

What we’ve always lacked, though, was a real Italian deli. The kind of place where you walk in and you can see different meats curing, mounds of fine cheeses from around the world that you can’t just grab at a Publix down the road.

Most importantly, an Italian deli where you could get the best subs. Ones that are always filled to the point where no pocket of air could possibly exist, ensuring that every bite is as memorable as the last.

When Enzo’s opened in the former Blue Cactus space in Five Points, Columbia finally got the Italian deli it needed.

The menu is clean and simple, with of hot and cold subs. The star is absolutely the cool side of things, featuring some of the best cold cuts the city has to offer. This week’s bite is a prime example.

The Piper, at its most basic, is a sub that you can find in some way all over the city: cold cuts, roasted red peppers, mozzarella, onion, lettuce and oil and vinegar. The difference is that the whole sum is drastically better in every inch of the equation. Every bite — between the noticeably higher quality cold cut, the balance of accessories, and even the construction — is well thought out and, frankly, incredible.

While you’re picking up a sub, you can shop the marketplace for Italian goods and enjoy a meal outside at one of the tables. Enzo’s also has desserts such as cannoli and black-and-white cookies.

Correction: This story has been updated to reflect that the sandwich includes onion and not tomato.

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