Trendlines: Brown Butter Jus Lie at Circa 1886

Circa 1886 chef Marc Collins adds brown butter jus lie to Lamb "Osso Bucco," with almond cauliflower puree, rapini, and pomegranate hibiscus molasses. Wade Spees/Staff

Meet brown butter

Brown butter, or beurre noisette if you’re fancy, is butter cooked over low heat until it’s nutty and hazelnut-hued.

Learn its backstory

A staple of French cooking, brown butter is almost too easy to make: If you’ve ever waited a smidgen too long to add eggs to a frying pan, you’ve seen butter darken and foam. The trick is to remove the butter from heat before it burns: The resulting sauce can be used to enrich vegetables, pastries, chicken and fish.

So what makes a centuries-old technique trendy? Lately, chefs have been advertising their brown-butter secret; the sauce is increasingly listed on menus, presumably because an educated dining public is hip to its sublimity. Earlier this month, for example, Husk served farro with apples, squash and brown butter, while brown butter waffles are a standard brunch item at The Granary (which is on hiatus during its move from Belle Hall to Coleman Boulevard.)

Brown butter also has made local appearances in soup at 2 Nixons, on pasta at Indaco and in cocktails at The Gin Joint. When Catersource, a trade publication for the catering industry, earlier this year summarized the Leading Caterers of America’s visit to Charleston, it singled out Duvall Events’ brown butter toasted brioche as “a regional Lowcountry temptation.”

And order it here

Circa 1886, 149 Wentworth St., 843-701-1431, circa1886.com (Lamb “osso bucco” with almond cauliflower puree, rapini, brown butter jus lie and pomegranate hibiscus molasses, $29)

Reach Hanna Raskin at 843-937-5560 and follow her on Twitter @hannaraskin.

Food editor and chief critic

Eating all of the chicken livers just as fast as I can.