Sum of its parts The story behind every element on a restaurant plate

The chef at Prohibition made Ribbit Roulade for Sum of Parts. (Brad Nettles/Staff) 11/20/14

Prohibition chef Stephen Thompson

Prohibition

Rabbit roulade, $15

When Thompson first made this dish, it took him an hour to create the roulade. He now has the rolling process down to about one minute.

The restaurant receives its rabbits whole; Thompson breaks them down and brines the loin overnight in water, sugar, spices, salt and pepper.

Sweet peppers, pickled in-house, are spread on the meat, along with manchego cheese.

The roulade is breaded “like a fried green tomato” with flour, egg wash and panko.

Paella made from Calasparra rice and Keegan-Filion Farm chorizo with bell peppers and onions sits beneath the roulade.

The lemon juice and white wine in the Sriracha hollandaise bump up the dish’s acidity.

“We make a lot of that stuff,” Thompson says of the hollandaise. It’s also served with the duck hash and spicy fries.

The broccolini is blanched before plating.

Fresh parsley introduces color to the dish.

Thinly sliced radishes add crunch to the dish. Thompson likes every dish to have “sweet, spicy, savory, crunchy and smooth” elements.

Because he’s “always trying to go against the norm,” Thompson prepared a turkey-and-stuffing roulade for his family’s Thanksgiving when he was fresh out of culinary school.

Thompson still assembles the roulade himself; “I don’t have anyone who would want to learn to do this.”

Diners have traditionally shirked from rabbit, but Thompson thought the “hand-rolled” descriptor would make it more appealing. The roulade and rabbit tacos are now the restaurant’s top sellers.