SAN FRANCISCO — In the mood for a bit of bubbly this season? You may want to join the blush rush.

"Definitely, people are drinking more rose champagne than before," says Herve Rousseau, owner of Flute, a champagne bar with two locations in New York and a third coming in Paris.

Not too long ago, pink fizzy wine was not the most sophisticated of tipples. But the rising popularity of drier rose (pronounced rose-zay) still wines has translated to the sparkling world as well, with a raft of elegant choices available.

"The market has discovered that sparkling rose can be delicious and dry, and the color is certainly extremely festive. We're seeing huge growth in that market as an industry," says Eileen Crane, winemaker and president of Domaine Carneros, a sparkling wine producer in the Napa Valley owned by the French company Taittinger.

Classic sparklers get their bubbles from a secondary fermentation in the bottle, generally through adding sugar, yeast and a little bit of wine, often known as "methode Champenoise."

A second way to create bubbles is through the Charmat process in which the secondary fermentation takes place in bulk tanks.

Bubbles around the world include Italy's popular sparkling wine prosecco and Spain's cava. Bubbles are also popular in Italy in wines, such as the dry or semi-sweet red Lambrusco, lightly sweet sparkling Asti, and the even sweeter frizzante (semi-sparkling) Moscato d'Asti.

Several different types of grapes go into sparkling wines. Blanc de blanc is made from chardonnay grapes. Blanc de noir is made from the red grape pinot noir although the wine itself is white. Rose champagnes get their pinkish tinge from allowing the red grape skins (known as the must) to stay in contact with the juice for a short time, or by adding small amounts of red wine.

An example of how far rose has come, looking at imports of champagne, roses made up just under 2 percent of the total in 1995, 227,000 bottles out of a total of 12.5 million, according to the U.S. Office of Champagne, based in Washington, D.C. Last year, rose was at about 9 percent, 1.9 million bottles out of about 23 million.

"Dry versions of rose go beautifully with pink foods: salmon, tuna even things like lobster, bouillebaise, pork," says Karen Page, author with Andrew Dornenburg of "What to Drink With What You Eat."

If you really want to get ahead of the curve, think red; sparkling shiraz is beginning to emerge on U.S. store shelves.

"It's very flexible with lots of different foods," says Page. She likes sparkling shiraz for holiday dinners, where lots of different entrees and wacky side dishes may appear.

Types of champagne and sparkling wine and food pairing suggestions from Page and Andrew Dornenburg, her co-author of "What to Drink With What You Eat."

Dry

These may be called extra brut (0 to 0.6 percent residual sugar listed on the label), brut, (i.e. under 1.5 percent residual sugar) or extra dry (1.2 percent to 2 percent residual sugar.) Many cavas and proseccos and most champagnes produced fall into this category. Roses can be dry or off-dry, check the sugar level. Best before or after dinner.

Goes well with: savory dishes such as eggs, oysters or smoked salmon. Dry roses go well with duck, salmon, pork. Proseccos and cava go especially well with Chinese food and salty dishes, as well as fried foods such as tempura, fish and chips.

Off-dry

May be labeled sec (1.7 percent to 3.5 percent residual sugar) or demi sec (3.5 percent to 5 percent residual sugar.

Goes well with: foie gras, pates, other rich foods. A rose in this category pairs well with pink fruits: cherries, raspberries, strawberries.

Sweet

May be labeled doux or sweet. Residual sugar is more than 5 percent. Best at end of dinner.

Goes well with: sweeter brunch items, such as pancakes, french toast, breakfast pastries. Can handle all but the sweetest desserts.

On the Web

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