When John Zucker of Cru Café selected the name for his second restaurant, the Old English meaning of the term Purlieu – meaning on the fringes of a forest – made sense in the context of its Westside location.

But the WestEdge development has come to life in the intervening years, so Purlieu is no longer so far removed from the city’s commercial center. So now the name alludes to the homey Lowcountry dish, and other continental comfort foods on the menu created by Zucker and co-executive chef, Jeff Williams.

Purlieu is serving hanger steak, bouillabaisse and a burger so celebrated it merits its own box on the menu. Smaller plates include a frog leg tart, rabbit rillettes and duck breast salad.

Located at 237 Fishburne St., Purlieu is open Tuesday-Saturday, 5-10 p.m. For more information, call 843-300-2253 or visit purlieucharleston.com.

— Hanna Raskin

Reach Hanna Raskin at 843-937-5560 and follow her on Twitter @hannaraskin.

Food editor and chief critic

Eating all of the chicken livers just as fast as I can.