Repeat after owner Brooks Reitz: Melfi’s is not a pizzeria.

To be sure, the upper King Street restaurant serves pies with crackery crusts, but Reitz vows that’s just because it’s what a proper Italian restaurant ought to do, along with making its own pasta, pouring good espresso and draping its tables in white linen. "This is definitely the most grown-up of the three restaurants," Reitz told The Post and Courier prior to Melfi’s opening, referring to sibling properties Leon’s Oyster Shop and Little Jack’s Tavern.

Like those restaurants, though, Melfi’s offers an on-message drinks list, featuring an assortment of Negroni variations and an all-Italian wine selection.

Melfi’s, 721 King St., opens daily for dinner at 5 p.m. For more information, visit eatatmelfis.com or call 843-513-0307.

Reach Hanna Raskin at 843-937-5560 and follow her on Twitter @hannaraskin.

Food editor and chief critic

Eating all of the chicken livers just as fast as I can.