Vandy Vanderwarker often indulged his classical French tendencies while serving as chef de cuisine of The Ordinary, a restaurant that shot to national prominence during his tenure. But he’s now practicing those techniques full-time as chef-owner of Maison, which recently opened in the former Pancito & Lefty’s on upper King Street.

Vanderwarker is aiming for a combination of modernity and minimalism at the new restaurant. His menu features foie gras; an English pea tart; mussels bourride; whole flounder and dry-aged duck. And he opened just in time for soft-shell crab season, which annually allows local chefs to assert their culinary philosophies. His crab was sauced with roasted chicken butter and served with sorrel and sugar snaps.

Maison, 708 King St., is open 5 p.m.-10 p.m., Monday-Thursday; 5 p.m.-11 p.m., Friday-Saturday. For more information, call 843-990-9165 or visit maisoncharleston.com.

Reach Hanna Raskin at 843-937-5560 and follow her on Twitter @hannaraskin.

Food editor and chief critic

Eating all of the chicken livers just as fast as I can.