Father Joseph Tedesco of Mepkin Abbey is practiced at producing simple cuisine, but this dish is appropriate for a special occasion, especially one scheduled for a cold, wintry night. “You wouldn’t find anything as nice as this for a party dish,” he pledges. “It’s very rich and elegant; just great for company.”

Mepkin grows its own oyster and shitake mushrooms, but Tedesco says any kind of mushroom will get along with potatoes and cheese. Even the cheese is up for discussion: While Tedesco likes Gruyere, Swiss and Gouda are equally well-suited for the dish.

— Hanna Raskin

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Reach Hanna Raskin at 843-937-5560 and follow her on Twitter @hannaraskin.