“The only constant is change,” is a cliché that’s routinely slapped on a dining scene that welcomes new restaurants on a weekly basis. But it’s perhaps more accurate to say Charleston’s constant is okra soup.

Although gumbo’s Lowcountry cousin is rarely referenced in the city’s fanciest restaurants, it’s still served in homes and affordable luncheonettes, which is why chef BJ Dennis believes it deserves a page in The Post-Courier Cookbook Redux. Dennis’ version of the traditional soup is made with shrimp, rather than beef, which usually governs the tomato broth. But disagreeing about tradition is a local constant too.

— Hanna Raskin

Reach Hanna Raskin at 843-937-5560 and follow her on Twitter @hannaraskin.

Food editor and chief critic

Eating all of the chicken livers just as fast as I can.