“Personally if I could, I would only cook vegetables and fish,” Short Grain Food Truck’s Shuai Wang says. “Those I think have always been my strong point.” Despite Wang’s wishes, his customers tend to order “chicken, chicken, chicken, chicken.”

This dish is a fine illustration of what poultry lovers are missing. Wang likes to sprinkle the roasted squash with togarashi, a Japanese chile-based seasoning blend available from Asian markets and spice stores, but it’s OK to omit that last step. And if you don’t have the equipment to smoke sour cream (which Wang swears is easier than it sounds), plain sour cream works, too.

“I have also smoked things on my stove in a cast-iron pan lined with wood chips,” Wang says. “Simply put the oven-safe container on top of the chips, and then put the lid on the cast iron and smoke it that way. However, that does make your house smell like a barbecue joint.”

— Hanna Raskin

Reach Hanna Raskin at 843-937-5560 and follow her on Twitter @hannaraskin.

Food editor and chief critic

Eating all of the chicken livers just as fast as I can.