The idea behind The Post and Courier Cookbook Redux project is to develop a picture of Charleston dining right now, which means it's thus far been restricted to Charleston contributors.
But one of the defining features of the current Charleston restaurant scene is influence that extends far beyond the Lowcountry. Philosophies and techniques birthed here are carried to other cities by visiting chefs and veterans of local kitchens.
For example, this year's list of semi-finalists for a James Beard Foundation Award includes Pineapple & Pearls, a potential nominee for Best New Restaurant. Its chef-owner Aaron Silverman got his professional start on the line at McCrady's.
Last year's long list for the same prize included The Dabney, launched by former McCrady's chef de cuisine Jeremiah Langhorne. Langhorne this week is making his first publicized return to town for the Charleston Wine + Food Festival, and he kindly sent along a recipe in advance.
As Redux followers puzzle over where the cookbook's recipe set suggests Charleston food is going, Langhorne's stew is a delicious reminder of where Charleston food has already gone. It features Sea Island Purple Cape Beans, which producer Anson Mills describes as dark, woodsy and velvet-like; if you can't find them, use your favorite heirloom beans instead.
— Hanna Raskin