Books for cooks “The Southerner’s Cookbook: Recipes, Wisdom, and Stories”

By delivering a charming culinary serving of the South that they salute in their magazine, the editors of Garden & Gun have created the holiday’s perfect present. The South does not have to be home for readers of the cookbook to crave the flavors of its food as conjured by pages of country captain, fried cornmeal-crusted catfish, braised quail, creamed collards, and bacon-wrapped venison loin, which would be nicely accompanied by the piquant Jezebel sauce below. A quaff of Charleston Brown Water Society punch and a slice of applejack stack cake could make a fine finish. Published by Harper Wave. $37.50.

Reach Marion Sullivan at mbscooks@gmail.com.

Makes 1 cup

This community cookbook staple delivers a much happier ending than its biblical namesake to whatever grilled or roasted meats you choose to pair with it. The charred Vidalia onion lends a sweet and smoky flavor to this versatile sauce, and is balanced with a little spice from the horseradish and mustard, plus bright notes of citrus that keep it well out of cloying territory.

Ingredients

1 small Vidalia onion

1 teaspoon vegetable oil

3 tablespoons grainy mustard

3 tablespoons prepared horseradish, drained

1/4 cup apple jelly

1/4 cup pineapple preserves

1/2 teaspoon grated lemon zest

1 teaspoon freshly squeezed lemon juice

Directions

Trim the ends from the onion and cut into 4 rounds about 1⁄2 inch thick. Remove the skins. Place a large cast-iron skillet over high heat and add the oil. Add the onion slices and cook for 3 to 5 minutes per side, until well charred and soft.

Transfer the onion slices to a cutting board and finely chop. Put in a mixing bowl with the mustard, horseradish, apple jelly, pineapple preserves, lemon zest, and lemon juice, stirring well to combine. Let cool to room temperature. Cover and refrigerate overnight to allow the flavors to meld. Serve at room temperature.

Store any remaining sauce in an airtight container, refrigerated, for up to 1 week.