In 2002, Food & Wine recognized Hugh Acheson with one of its Best New Chef awards. The magazine described his featured Frogmore Stew recipe as "a Southern version of bouillabaisse."

"It's simple yet refined," he said. "We're not into foam yet."

At the time, Acheson was chef/partner in his first restaurant, Five & Ten in Athens, Ga., where that Frogmore Stew remains on the menu today. He has gone on to open three more restaurants.

Though from Canada, Acheson spent parts of his youth in Atlanta and Clemson, and was married in Charleston.

"I have fallen hard for the place," he writes in his "A New Turn in the South" cookbook. "For fried chicken; the railway trestles; the panoply of music, folk art, and front porch living; and, most important, the agrarian landscape."

That is the essence of this cookbook: colorful, folksy, and filled with Southern flavors, such as Field Pea, Ham Hock, & Mustard Green Soup With Cornbread Croutons. It is our good fortune that he has yet to get into foam.

Hardcover. Clarkson Potter/Publishers. $35.

Acheson will be in Charleston for the following events: