Everything is set at The Establishment for a memorable performance, including the dramatic backdrop distinguished by floral arrangements and a wall's worth of televisions. But while the front-of-house staff plays its part admirably, the food doesn't quite meet the mark: Seafood is a trouble spot for Concentrics Restaurants' 13th project, despite its claims to specialize in it. Diners who want to gape at the room are better off here with beef tataki and ice cream.

Reach Hanna Raskin at 843-937-5560 and follow her on Twitter @hannaraskin.

Food editor and chief critic

Eating all of the chicken livers just as fast as I can.