Load up on barbecue at Rev's Smokehouse

A brisket sandwich, collard greens and butter beans from Rev’s Smokehouse.

The five-month-old Texas-flavored outfit in Summerville sticks to its guns. Everything is wood-fired at Rev's Smokehouse, and you can tell. No namby-pamby electric or gas contrivances here.

Just be careful. From Dorchester Road, Rev's has a way of sneaking up on drivers, as it's situated in the corner of a retail center behind Summerville Ford.

It's sort of a bare-bones outfit. No music plays in the background to offer a soundtrack for lunch or dinner, so Rev's can be downright quiet during idle moments. Otherwise, a few cowboy relics hang from the walls: lassos, hats, boots, lanterns and other bits and pieces from the trail.

A small menu board directs the focus, listing smokehouse classics such as brisket, pulled pork, turkey, ribs and chicken.

The restaurant doesn't cleave to the standards either. It builds sandwiches such as the Alamo ($8.49), gathering together tender smoked brisket, jalapenos and melted provolone cheese, then crowning the whole thing with onion rings.

If it's anything like the Burnt End sandwich ($8.49), it's probably a great big, glorious mess. It's twice cooked -- braised first, then finished off on the grill -- and has the consistency of a greasy Sloppy Joe, spilling onto the white paper beneath the roll. Then there's the Sumter ($8.49), loaded for bear with pulled pork, a double dosing of slaw, bread and butter pickles and jalapenos.

A twin-pack of sauces graces the table: one a tangy, sweet mustard variety and the other a rich, red traditional sauce. Sides (two for $1.99) include baked beans, cabbage, fried okra and Dixie caviar, a vinegary side containing peas, black beans, corn, garlic and cilantro. We especially enjoyed the mac and cheese; the vibrant, crunchy collards; and the remarkable sweet potato casserole.

But then, too, we especially enjoyed Rev's. Giddyup, indeed.