German offerings slim but delicious at Mueller’s

Rob Young The wiener schintzel sandwich from Mueller’s Pub.

Just about every day, Alex Mueller offers up a seat at the Stammtisch at his eponymously titled establishment, Mueller’s Pub, situated near the Piggly Wiggly on Skylark Drive in West Ashley.

The Stammtisch represents a traditional German table of honor for family, friends and regulars, which could mean about anyone to the affable and German-born Mueller.

Though the bar once housed an actual circular Stammtisch, it grew too large and cumbersome to bear.

So instead, Mueller’s itself acts as a symbolic Stammtisch, a welcoming place for all comers.

Formerly known as the Ten Seventeen pub under the same owner, it’s still colored by Mueller’s affections: soccer, the Michigan State Spartans and Germany.

His family owned and operated a hotel-restaurant-cafe in Germany’s Black Forest mountain range, and Mueller has adapted a few of his family recipes to fit America.

The bar manages to offer a pair of German mainstays: slow-cooked, beer-soaked bratwurst with sauerkraut ($6) and wiener schnitzel, which is elongated, battered, compacted and served with Jaeger sauce ($5.99).

Alas, there’s really just those two.

No currywurst. No noodles or potatoes entries. No sour roast.

But that’s likely because the audience for BLTs and Italian hoagies is greater than the demand for wiener schnitzel, which is why Mueller’s makes do with typical bar trappings: hot wings, bacon and cheddar fries, jalapeno poppers and mozzarella sticks.

Other items include fried chicken and chef salads, roast beef sandwiches and popular chicken salad sandwiches.

Sure, the majority may not be of German extract, but one can always grab a seat at the bar, a St. Pauli Girl or Beck’s beer, watch a bit of soccer and pretend otherwise.

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