Millers All Day biscuits

Millers All Day has changed the recipe for its  biscuits, with delicious results. A flight (clockwise from left) features biscuits in honey almond dusted with cinnamon sugar, plain buttermilk, pimento cheese and iced lemon rosemary. Hanna Raskin/Staff

The biscuits are now better at Millers All Day.

Despite the lower King Street restaurant’s unwavering focus on quality grains and breakfast items, biscuits have been a sticking point for Millers from the start.

While the biscuit’s flaws weren’t as apparent with a slice of country ham or fried chicken piece wedged between its halves, it was typically bland and overworked: A former head chef told The Post and Courier that he begged the restaurant’s owners to address it.

Millers didn’t make any biscuit changes at the time, but executive chef Joe DiMaio recently collaborated with pastry chef DaVee Harned to substantially revise the house recipe. They eliminated the egg wash; thinned the dough, in order to cut back on cooking time; and started brushing the biscuits with butter.

As a recent visit to Millers confirmed, the changes worked. DiMaio and Harned are so proud of the improvements that the restaurant now sells a quartet of mini biscuits in various flavors. My “biscuit flight” included an iced lemon rosemary biscuit, a pimento cheese biscuit, a honey almond biscuit dusted with cinnamon sugar, and a plain buttermilk biscuit.

Of the four, the sweet sugared biscuit was the standout, perhaps because the new biscuit already has a butter bent. But all of them were richer and flakier than any other biscuit I’d tried over the course of half a dozen visits to Millers since its March 2018 opening.

With downtown Charleston restaurants scampering after every available dollar, it’s becoming increasingly difficult to keep up with all of the sector’s concept changes, chef changes and menu changes. But a thought-out change that delivers a more memorable gravy experience for guests is the kind of change that’s nice to see.

Reach Hanna Raskin at 843-937-5560 and follow her on Twitter @hannaraskin.