Cork Neighborhood Bistro

Owner Tradd Ashley Gibbs and chef Sean Wren's labor of love, Cork Neighborhood Bistro, was a long time coming. Committed to sustainable building practices, the two kept the hungry updated on their progress (and some days, lack of it) through tweets as they dismantled and refurbished 1067 E. Montague Ave.

Gibbs' roots are deep in North Charleston. His grandfather was known as the "mayor without a city" as North Charleston sought a referendum to become an incorporated city in its own right. His parents are graduates of North Charleston High School and they, along with Gibbs, continue to reside in Park Circle, as does chef Wren.

This fall, their modest bistro opened for lunch. It takes its name not from County Cork but from Gibbs' and Wren's dedication to use green materials in the construction of their restaurant. Cork, the material, was selected as the moniker for their efforts.

In December, they introduced a breakfast menu and are planning dinner service as soon as their beer and wine license is issued.

Cork nails the concept of bistro design. It has charm, an intimate space, high ceilings and two right-size dining areas. Gibbs showcases the work of local artists. Typically, you will find paintings hung in the front room, photographs in the rear. The tables are set with linens, and fresh blooms are arranged in apothecary bottles.

The kitchen is committed to local and seasonal ingredients. Sustainable practices define their business model. Expect the menu to change with the seasons.

The French bistro template is honored with menu items such as Nicoise salad ($10) topped with slices of yellow fin tuna, a croque monsieur sandwich ($8) with Gruyere and sauce bechamel.

Brie is the default cheese, and artisan breads perform the supporting role for sandwiches. The salad dressings are vinaigrettes and varied by the use of vinegars such as red wine, aged balsamic and sherry. The salads themselves are available in petite (that Francais influence again) and full size. You may top them with chicken ($4) or shrimp ($5). Look for hearty, whole-grain moutarde (mustard) to anoint your sandwiches.

Just like its Parisienne cousins, Cork dabbles in the "cuisines" of other places: Philadelphia cheese steaks ($8) and pasta salads, avocado BLT sandwiches ($7) along with chicken salad ($8) and pork loin ($9). The anorexic green beans known as haricots verts keep company with kalamata olives from Greece, and English cucumbers offer their nearly seedless surface to a classic bistro salad ($5, $8).

This being the South, peppers are pickled and cucumbers are marinated in a sweet-and-tart vinegar flavored with pickling spice. Cheerwine and Nehi ($2) refresh with nostalgia, and sweet tea is poured with pleasure.

This is a scratch-cooking kitchen. A soup du jour is a homey cream-based chicken soup ($4, $6) with sweet-earthy carrots and crisp bits of celery. This same poultry appears in a house-made chicken salad sandwich ($8) with chunks of white and dark meat bound with minimal mayonnaise and walnuts for crunch. And the daily "tart" is chicken potpie ($9).

Tomato bisque ($4, $6) is lightened with cream, and a dark green slick of basil oil floats on its surface, bringing basil's anise notes to the front.

Sandwich making is taken seriously. Condiments are first rate, and the sandwiches themselves are crafted with flavor profiles and textures in mind. The pork loin ($9) is marinated and roasted, thinly sliced and topped with a double-cream Brie; onions are sweated down to slippery strings with the sweetness of marmalade and sparked with whole-grain mustard. The roll, a Kaiser, is from a local bakery.

Sandwiches are served with cucumbers and chips. A side can be added for $1.

Breakfast is a real value from a simple bacon, egg and cheese sandwich ($5) to a turkey Monte Cristo ($6). The latter, with its dip into batter and traditional jam garnish, is perfect for this meal. Think sweet and savory French toast. Eat simply with two hard-cooked eggs ($2) or savor a Black Forest ham and Boursin cheese croissant fashioned Florentine style with a gently fried egg ($6). Coffee is sourced from Iron Brew, a small-batch roaster featured in Food & Wine magazine. Bring in your own mug or cup and save 50 cents.

The dishes at Cork Neighborhood Bistro are simply conceived. There are no pretenses, and the ambition of the kitchen is modest. The owners wisely have selected an organic approach to their goals.

Starting with lunch, adding breakfast and concluding with dinner service this winter, they have provided their staff and chef Wren the opportunity to fine-tune the operation.

Cork is a bistro that will happily remain afloat as the restaurant tides turn in this current economy.

Cork Neighborhood Bistro

Cuisine: American Eclectic

Category: Neighborhood Favorite

Phone: 225-2675 (CORK).

Location: 1067 E. Montague Ave., North Charleston.

Food: ¤¤¤

Atmosphere: ¤¤¤ 1/2

Price: $

Costs: Soups $4-$6, salads $5-$10, sandwiches and wraps $7-$9, daily specials/tart of the day $9, sides $3, desserts $6, breakfast $2-$6.

Vegetarian Options: Limited to salads.

Bar: Beer and wine license pending.

Hours: Breakfast 8-10:30 a.m.; lunch 11 a.m.-2:30 p.m., 3 p.m. on Saturdays; closed Sunday. Dinner service expected in February.

Decibel Level: Moderate.

Parking: Street parking.

Wheelchair Access: Yes.

Other: Catering, private functions, use of local, seasonal ingredients. Local artists supported through gallery displays at Cork; www.corkbistro.com; Twitter ID: corkbistro.