Amen Street Fish and Raw Bar

A hallelujah chorus for fresh fish on East Bay Street

Nothing like a little divine intervention to channel a credible bottom line. Partners Richard Stoney (Crew Carolina LLC) and Keith Jones (Southend Brewery and Smokehouse) spent the better part of the summer renovating the space that was once home to the East Bay Crab Shack at East Bay and Cumberland streets.

Along the way, they learned that the street now called Cumberland was once known as Amen Street: A little echo of the prayerful sounds coming from St. Philip's Church and the Methodist Meeting House. Not a bad legacy to have, making a joyful noise to the Lord.

The original cast-iron columns remain from the time when the building was the home of William M. Bird and Company. The interior walls are stripped down to exposed brick. The bricks themselves are stratified in layers of different colors and mortar textures. Each level tells another chapter in the history of 205 East Bay St.

Creative lighting that uses oyster shells captures an upside-down parasol design with filtered light cascading from a most appropriate design material for a seafood and raw bar restaurant.

Reproductions of the French poster artist Paul Colin's iconic work, "Le Tumulte Noir (The Black Craze)" are displayed in the bar area and soften the monotony of the brick walls.

Josephine Baker must be dancing a heavenly Charleston seeing this lithographic homage to the jazz age in France and her performance in La Revue Negre.

Amen Street has wisely kept the decor simple. Framed plats identify the street name's early history. The restaurant itself possesses a casual charm straddling the hip and homey. Echoes of the great raw bars of the past play out in its dressed-down look.

The menu features a daily special sheet. A roster of seasonal oysters, fresh catch of the day, a salad and entree join the existing menu. It's a menu that gets you salivating with its interesting and creative choices.

Oysters were required and an order of Mapeques from Prince Edward Island did not disappoint. They remained true to their "salty dog" taste. Their transparent flavors came through on a wave of briny, cold suppleness braced with mignonette, creamy horseradish and cocktail sauces. Gulf Coast oysters ($7.95, $13.95) are menu staples.

The appetizers and raw bar selections are varied and global. Calamari ($8.50) is presented in long fingers versus rings and is topped with loaded lemon aioli mingled with tomato, bacon and green onion. It is also poached in Champagne ($8.95).

Peel-and-eat shrimp ($10.75) appeared plump and fresh. Shrimp corndogs ($10.95) tempted us. I wasn't sure if they were the worst thing that could happen to shrimp or the best thing to happen to this state fair staple. Their batter was more tempura-like than the cakey batter of a corn dog but the shrimp inside were tender and sweet. The Carolina mustard was worthy of a private label production and dilled okra pickles were the perfect antidote to the mustard's heat.

Salads range from a berry and Brie with mixed greens and spiced pecans ($7.95) to a classic Caesar salad ($7.95) with an nontraditional presentation. A core of Romaine is dressed with a creamy Caesar dressing, topped with a white anchovy fillet and shaved parmesan cheese.

The fresh fish selection changes daily ($9.95-$20.95, MP). Some are flown in from other coastal locations. Hawaii was the port of call for mahi-mahi and trigger fish. You choose from three preparations: simply grilled with asparagus and a tomato vinaigrette; blackened and served on a cushion of "popcorn rice," French green beans and tomato relish; or Mongolian barbecue style with a stir-fry of vegetables.

The flounder had a fresh, nut-like flavor (sauteed, not grilled) and the tomato vinaigrette and herbed oil dressing was quite pleasing. The asparagus were tender-crisp and all the flavors complemented each other.

The blackened mahi-mahi demonstrated the kitchen's cooking chops by keeping the fish moist but gently charring the spices. A neighbor's scallop dish with a crisp surface of culinary caramel and a translucent center set the standard for scallop cooking.

You can add a side for $3.75 to any entree or a small salad for $3.95. The creamed corn will be your culinary siren song.

Meat eaters will find a burger ($8.95) and a petite filet of beef ($21.95). But when the operative name of a restaurant is "raw bar and fish," why bother?

The kitchen is both competent and playful. From ceviche ($9.95) to crudo ($15.95), from spring rolls ($9.75) to tuna Tartare, the global pantry is handled with skill and care.

Desserts were weak. A dessert trio ($10.95) provided the opportunity to sample three: a key lime tart with a dense crust, a chocolate mousse pie with a stiff filling and a red velvet cake that over-indulged on cream cheese.

Servers are well-informed, animated and engaged. You might even see chef Todd Garrigan making the rounds. A good exercise for any chef.

Amen Street Fish and Raw Bar has placed its hands upon the waters of finfish and shellfish and has raised up a new bar for seafood in the Holy City.

Restaurant review

Cuisine: Seafood

Category: Neighborhood Favorite

Phone: 853-8600

Location: 205 East Bay St.

Food: ¤¤¤ 1/2

Atmosphere: ¤¤¤ 1/2

Price: $$-$$$

Costs: Soups $4.95-$6.95, salads $6.95-$8.95, protein add-ons $4-$6.50, appetizers $6.95-$10.95, raw bar $7.95-MP, sandwiches $8.95-$10.95, entrees $12.95-$21.95, daily special sheet Market Price, sides $3.75, desserts $5.95-$10.95.

Vegetarian Options: Yes.

Bar: Full service bar.

Hours: Daily 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m.; bar service until 2 a.m.

Decibel Level: Animated to the best of boisterous.

Parking: Metered street parking and city lots.

Wheelchair Access: Yes.

Other: Daily special sheet for raw bar and fish. Private events, Amen Room, Oyster Room. www.amenstreet.com. Walk-ins welcome; reservations suggested for weekends.