Tokyo Bistro and Sushi Bar

Culinary Caravan of the Far East

Tokyo Bistro and Sushi Bar had hardly cut its culinary teeth on hamachi kami and tonkatsu when it announced "You asked, we listened" and revealed its new menu.

The restaurant is now featuring the foods of Japan, Thailand, Malaysia, Vietnam and China!

Granted the foods of China and Japan find kindred ingredients and common ground in cooking procedures. And Southeast Asia with its use of fish sauce, galangal, lemongrass and citrus unifies the Thai, Malay and Vietnamese culinary canons.

Well, this would be a hard pantry to stock and more importantly, who would ask for all of these cuisines to be delivered by a chef in the small space that is the kitchen at Tokyo Bistro?

But hey, maybe their investors/owners read the latest trend reports for restaurants in 2009: the one about ethnic stars rising and Asian fusion on a roll (pun intended).

Tokyo Bistro offers us the marketing strategy of a "Office Suite," cable TV and a "Happy Meal" bundling for all and any appetites: pad thai, katsu, mei fun, soba and curry not to mention sushi, sashimi and tempura.

With 21 menu categories (including lunch), you be the judge.

Add to their menu equation Tokyo Bistro's attempt at humor, "Sacha Awesome Beef" ($12.95), "Youth-N-Asia" ($12.95) and "Sifu Nest" ($18.95), you get the feeling they are playing chopsticks roulette and hope the best cuisine prevails.

The design is clearly Japanese inspired. From the "roof" sheltering the bar to the norens (fabric panels) in the doorways to the kokeshi (dolls) and maneki neko (cat), it is clear that before the "people spoke," Tokyo Bistro had its roots in the food and culture of Japan.

A small sushi bar is there for those who prefer an omakase experience. The fish case appears fresh; the fish displayed in small portions, properly iced. Attractive lighting draws your eye to the "stage" on which the sushi, sashimi, maki and nigiri are crafted. A private room, not quite a tatami, is available for larger parties.

The menu is daunting with its sheer largess but the staff is helpful, accommodating and patient.

We began with gyoza ($4.95). These thin-skinned, crescent-shaped dumplings can be had steamed or fried. We opted for the crispy ones and found the wrappers tough around the edges, the pork filling more like textured vegetable protein than ground pork.

Presentation was attractive with a nest of shaved carrots and an artfully carved lemon wedge. This is a restaurant that has made a serious investment in presentation pieces, plates, bowls, spoons and platters. It makes your food pretty in "porcelain."

We cast Asian eating tradition aside and followed our appetizer with soup. A coconut chicken soup ($5.95) accented with peas and carrots was pleasingly thin and lacked the sweetness many coconut milk based soups possess. Chock full of chicken pieces, it is a meal in itself. It easily serves two.

The hot and sour soup ($2.95, $4.95) has a rich mouth-feel, nice heat quotient and generous amounts of fresh and dried mushrooms. It just lacked the sour notes that vinegar not only brings to the flavor of this soup but also perks up the flavors of the remaining dishes in an Asian dinner. A garnish of fresh scallion rings would add a colorful accent and a necessary crunch to each spoonful.

We opted for a vegetable tempura ($4.95) as both a vegetable course and "quasi" salad. It was not so light on its "feet" and had reached the saturation point of frying with a greasy outcome. Generous portion sizes continued for all the dishes we ordered.

Sushi lovers will find bold flavors beyond wasabi, pickled ginger and flying fish roe. From a carb-free dragon roll ($9.95) in which cucumber replaces nori, to special rolls filled with tempura flake-crusted shrimp ($11.95-$12.95), there is something for both the purist and the more adventuresome sultans of sushi alike.

A dish of basil chicken ($12.95) lacked the core flavors of Thai basil, was limited in its quantity of chicken but was generously supplied with vegetables and rice.

Service was extremely friendly and attentive. Tokyo Bistro feels and behaves like it can easily become your "neighborhood" sushi spot with just a few visits.

It is clear that its kitchen cannot be all things to all cuisines. Yes, there are common ingredients and cooking techniques but why would we expect them all under one roof?

Tokyo Bistro's current ad campaign might require that they turn a deaf ear and get back to executing the foods of Japan and the sushi of Edo and Osaka with purity and appreciation.

When it comes to bundling, leave that to the cable and computer companies.

Tokyo Bistro

Cuisine: Asian.

Category: Ethnic; Neighborhood Favorite.

Phone: 971-0277.

Location: 1501 U.S. Highway 17 North, Mount Pleasant in the Wando Crossing Shopping Center.

Food: ¤¤

Service: ¤¤¤ 1/2

Atmosphere: ¤¤¤

Price: $$-$$$

Costs: Appetizers $3.95-$17.95; soups and salads $2.25- $7.25, sushi appetizers $4.95-$9.95; entrees $10.95-$25.95; sushi, sashimi $1.95-$45.95; sides $2.95-$5.95. Lunch $7.95-$11.95; lunch maki $9.95-$12.95.

Vegetarian Options: Yes

Bar: Full service bar with designated area and high-top tables.

Hours: 11 a.m.-until Monday- Saturday; 4-10 p.m. Sunday; Happy Hour 4:30-7 p.m. Monday-Saturday; late-night specials after 8 p.m.

Decibel Level: Moderate.

Parking: Shopping center lot.

Wheelchair Access: Yes.

Other: Daily menu and drink specials. Sunday dinner, buy one, get one half-off. Friday night DJ. Sushi bar; private dining room. On the Web, www.Tokyo-Bistro.com.