Good times, good food

Thanksgiving ranks as the grandest meal of the year and makes the "stock" for memories and food traditions carried on for years to come.

We asked five local chefs about their Thanksgiving experiences, advice for cooks and what they're thankful for this year. Each one also shared a favorite recipe from the family table.

Give them a nod of thanks, too, as most of them will be working on the holiday.

Jonathan Hagins

Executive chef at Blu Restaurant and Bar, Folly Beach

About Hagins: A Savannah native, he graduated from the Culinary Institute of America in 1995. He has worked in several kitchens, including Kiawah Island resort as chef de cuisine, The Cloister at Sea Island, and as executive chef of the four-diamond Antonio's on Hilton Head Island.

Special memories: Not only Thanksgiving, but the family feasts every Sunday at his grandmother's house. "Always will be a childhood memory!" he says. Traditional Thanksgiving dishes were oyster dressing, carrot and turnips, maple-glazed roasted turkey, giblet gravy, simple mashed potatoes.

Words of wisdom to cooks: Get as much done as possible ahead of time and plan accordingly.

Gives thanks for: "I am thankful for my beautiful wife and children, and my staff at Blu! Thank you both for the support and sacrifice."

Roasted Turkey With Maple Herb Butter and Gravy

Yield 12 servings

Ingredients

For turkey:

2 cups apple cider

1/3 cup maple syrup

2 tablespoons fresh or dried thyme

2 tablespoons fresh or dried rosemary

1 teaspoon grated lemon peel

Salt and pepper to taste

1 1/2 sticks unsalted butter

1 (12- to 14-pound) turkey, neck and giblets removed

2 cups chopped white onion

1 cup chopped carrots

1 1/2 cups chopped celery

2 cups low-salt chicken broth or stock

For gravy:

1/2 stick unsalted butter

3 tablespoons all-purpose flour

3 cups low-salt chicken broth or stock

3 fresh thyme sprigs

1 bay leaf

Salt and pepper to taste

Directions

Boil the apple cider and syrup until reduced by half. Remove from heat and add the fresh herbs, lemon peel, salt and pepper. Whisk in butter and reserve; may be made ahead of time.

Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Dry the turkey as much as possible with paper towels. Place the turkey on a roasting rack and rub generously with the maple herb butter, as well as under the skin. Place the vegetables inside the cavity and around the roasting pan, tie the legs or truss the turkey to ensure even cooking. Pour 2 cups of the broth in the pan. Roast for 30 minutes at 375 degrees, then drop temperature to 350 degrees. Cover with foil and cook until the juices run clear and the internal temperature reaches 180 degrees, or about 2 hours 30 minutes, while basting the turkey the whole time.

For the gravy, melt the butter in a sauce pot. Add the flour and cook out for a few minutes on medium heat. Strain the liquid from the braising pan and whisk in the roux. Add the giblets and the neck if desired, add the remaining ingredients and season with salt and pepper.

M. Kelly Wilson

Pastry chef at Kiawah Island Club

About Wilson: She was born in Barnwell but the family moved to Hartsville when she was 8. Graduated from the University of South Carolina with history and English degrees. Graduated from Johnson & Wales University in Charleston, became pastry chef at Cypress. She held that post for seven years until going to Kiawah this fall.

Wilson also teaches baking classes and a course on jams and jellies at the Culinary Institute of Charleston.

Special memories: "My mom's dressing is my favorite part of the holiday. Both my brother and I make sure we get a big helping packed up for leftovers each year." The dressing consists of scratch-made cornbread, Pepperidge Farm cornbread stuffing mix with herbs, celery, onions, chicken stock, eggs, seasonings, toasted pecans and a surprise ingredient -- water chestnuts.

"The other food tradition in our family is the inclusion of a coconut cake and fruit salad in the dessert lineup. Grandma made the cake. My grandfather had two food-related jobs on Thanksgiving. The first was to crack, clean and grate the coconut meat that was included on the cake and sometimes in the fruit salad. Carving the turkey was his other responsibility. In the days leading up to the holiday, my aunt Mary Jean would crack pecans for the fruit salad, too.

"Since we always had the cake and fruit salad, I have come to feel over the years that it isn't Thanksgiving without the pair."

And even though Wilson will not be with her family on Thanksgiving, she keeps the tradition alive by making the cake and fruit salad for the 'family meal' at work.

Words of wisdom to cooks: "Do as much as you can ahead of time. Plastic wrap and airtight containers are your friends. The more planning and preparation you do in the days leading up to Thanksgiving, the less stressed and more thankful you can be on Thursday."

Gives thanks for: "I am thankful for my new job. Taking a position with a new company during a flagging economy was daunting, but it has proven to be just the change I needed to revitalize my career and expand my pastry knowledge."

Coconut Cake

Makes 1 (3-layer) cake

Ingredients

3 cups sifted cake flour

1 tablespoon baking powder

1/2 teaspoon salt

2 sticks unsalted butter, soft

2 cups sugar

4 eggs, room temperature

1 cup unsweetened coconut milk

1 teaspoon real vanilla extract

2 teaspoons real coconut extract or Malibu Coconut Rum

Coconut Buttercream icing (recipe follows)

Directions

Combine sifted flour with baking powder and salt and sift one more time. Set aside.

Cream the softened butter. Gradually add sugar; beat until light and fluffy. Add eggs one at a time to creamed mixture, beating well and then scraping the bowl after each addition. Add flour mixture alternately with coconut milk and flavorings, beating after each addition until smooth.

Divide the batter between 3 greased and floured 9-inch round cake pans. Bake at 350 degrees for 25 to 30 minutes or until a skewer inserted in the center of each layer comes out clean. Cool in pans 10 minutes. Remove from pans and cool on racks before icing.

Once completely cool, wrap the layers well and refrigerate for up to 2 days or freeze for up to one month. Thaw frozen layers overnight in the refrigerator before assembling the cake.

Coconut Buttercream Icing

For 3-layer cake

Ingredients

1 cup egg whites, cleanly separated

2 cups granulated sugar

4 sticks unsalted butter, cubed and soft

1/8 teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon coconut extract or Malibu Coconut Rum

Directions

In the bowl of an electric mixer, whisk together the egg whites and sugar. Place the bowl over a pot of boiling water. Whisking constantly, heat the mixture until all the sugar has dissolved and the mixture is hot. Heat the mixture as much as possible without cooking the whites. Put the bowl onto the stand mixer. Using the whip attachment, whip the mixture on high speed until you have a stiff meringue and the bottom of the bowl feels room temperature, about 10 minutes. Reduce the speed to low and add the butter a few cubes at a time. When all the butter is incorporated, stop the mixer. Scrape the bowl. Turn the mixer on low speed and add the salt and the coconut flavoring. Continue mixing until you have a smooth, creamy texture.

Use buttercream immediately or refrigerate in an airtight container for up to 10 days.

Chilled buttercream can be returned to a spreadable consistency easily. Remove 1/3 of the cold icing and place in a microwave-safe container. Microwave on medium power in 10-second intervals until the buttercream is mostly melted. Meanwhile, return the remaining buttercream to the stand mixer bowl. Fit the mixer with the whisk attachment. On low speed, slowly pour the melted buttercream over the cold buttercream. Increase speed and rewhip until spreadable.

For assembly:

3 coconut cake layers

Coconut buttercream

3 tablespoons Malibu Coconut Rum

3 (6-ounce) packages frozen coconut, thawed

Place one of the cake layers, top of the cake facing down, onto your serving platter. Brush a tablespoon of Malibu Coconut rum over the cake. Spread the cake with a layer of coconut buttercream. Sprinkle some of the coconut over the icing. Place another layer of cake on top of the frosting and repeat the brushing of the rum, the spreading of the buttercream, and the sprinkling of the coconut. Top with the final cake layer. Brush that layer with the remaining rum. Ice the top and sides of the cake. Cover the cake with the remaining coconut.

"Fruit salad is a quick side that adds color to the table," Wilson says. "My parents almost always receive some sort of holiday fruit basket. I usually raid that for the salad."

Fruit Salad

Ingredients

1/4 cup dried cherries

2 Granny Smith apples

2 Fuji apples

2 Bosc pears

4 navel oranges

2 tablespoons sugar

1/2 cup toasted pecans

Optional add-ins include banana, coconut

Directions

Rehydrate the cherries in 1/4 cup of hot water or liqueur of you choice.

Core and dice apples and pears. Zest one of the oranges over the diced fruit. Remove the peel from the oranges. Dice the orange flesh and add to the salad. Add the sugar, pecans, and any optional add-ins. Add cherries with the liquid. Toss the salad. Cover and refrigerate until time for dessert. Fruit salad is best consumed the day it is made.

Chris Stewart

Chef and partner in The Glass Onion, West Ashley

About Stewart: Grew up in Birmingham, Ala. Has a degree in hotel management from Auburn University and a culinary arts degree from Johnson & Wales University. Has been a sous chef at FIG, Slightly North of Broad and Magnolias restaurants in Charleston.

Special memories: "I grew up with a pretty traditional Thanksgiving spread -- ham and turkey -- but my Aunt Cindy ... always made oyster dressing and gumbo. Since her death, I have started making oyster dressing for my family and here at the Glass Onion."

Stewart says his grandparents were great cooks and an inspiration to him. His extended family in Birmingham, who all grew up on farms, also maintained gardens in their yards or vacant lots they owned around the city.

When his Aunt Cindy married and moved to New Orleans, she introduced some new dishes into the family Thanksgiving, including oyster dressing. But, "My aunt did it with cornbread to make everybody happy."

But other types of bread may be substituted; he suggests French bread or brioche.

Words of wisdom to cooks: "Careful planning so as not to overwhelm self. Don't be afraid to pull a dish! Generous libations!"

Gives thanks for: "My wife, Suzanne, my business partners, Charles and Sarah, and all of the staff here at the Glass Onion."

Glass Onion's Oyster Cornbread Dressing

10-12 servings

Ingredients

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

4 slices bacon, finely chopped

2 1/2 cups finely chopped onion (1 large onion)

1 1/4 cups finely chopped celery (3 stalks)

1 cup finely chopped carrot (1 medium carrot)

3 cloves of garlic, thinly sliced

1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt

1 1/2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper

1 pint oysters, liquor drained off and reserved

Chicken stock, enough that when combined with oyster liquor equals 2 1/2 cups

1/4 cup heavy cream

4 large eggs

1 1/2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh sage

1 1/2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh thyme

1 recipe for Glass Onion Cornbread (recipe follows), made at least a day in advance, crumbled

Directions

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

Grease a 9x13-inch baking dish with butter.

Saute bacon in a large skillet until crisp, about 5 minutes. Add onion, celery, carrot and garlic to the skillet. Season with 1/2 teaspoon salt and 1/2 teaspoon pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until vegetables are soft and all released liquid has cooked off, about 10 minutes. Remove from heat, transfer to large bowl and refrigerate until completely cool. Once cool, remove from refrigerator and add crumbled cornbread. Stir to combine.

Combine oyster liquor, chicken stock, heavy cream, eggs, sage, thyme and remaining teaspoon of salt and teaspoon of pepper in a medium bowl and whisk to combine. Add this mixture to cornbread-vegetable mixture and stir to combine. Add oysters and gently incorporate.

Pour dressing into baking dish. Bake until firm, about 1 1/2 hours.

Cornbread

Yield: About 6 cups

Ingredients

2 tablespoons bacon fat or butter

1 cup cornmeal

1 cup all-purpose flour

2 teaspoons baking powder

2 teaspoons sugar

1 tablespoon salt

2 eggs

4 tablespoons butter, melted

2 cups buttermilk

Directions

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Add grease or butter to a 9- or 10-inch cast-iron skillet. Heat in oven while you are making batter. (Alternatively, you can use a square baking pan, in which case you can grease the pan with butter but do not heat in oven.)

Whisk the dry ingredients together in a large bowl. Whisk wet ingredients together in another large bowl. Pour wet ingredients into dry ingredients and stir until just combined. Remove skillet from oven, pour batter into pan and bake for about an hour, until golden brown and tester comes out clean.

Brett McKee, chef and restaurateur, Oak Steakhouse, 17 North

Brett McKee

Chef and restaurateur, Oak Steakhouse, 17 North

About McKee: Over 15 years, McKee has opened several fine dining restaurants in Charleston -- Union Hall, Brett's, Brett's at The Wickcliff House and the Oak Steakhouse, where he's been since 2005. The chef is on the move again, opening the farm-to-plate 17 North restaurant in Mount Pleasant two weeks ago. He plans to launch O-Ku ("Oak" in Japanese) sushi restaurant in February.

McKee is a graduate of the New York Restaurant School.

Special memories: McKee looked forward to Thanksgiving every year as a child, because the whole family got together and spent the day cooking, eating, watching TV and enjoying time with each other. It was where cooking all began for him, in the kitchen with his mom. They would cook all day, watch the Thanksgiving parade on TV, Laurel and Hardy's "March of the Wooden Soldiers" and finish up with football. The snacks of choice while dinner was being prepared were stuffing on Ritz crackers and chips with Lipton Onion Soup Dip.

How his mother taught him to make gravy: Most importantly, reserve the starchy water from boiling the potatoes for mashed potatoes. Add flour to the turkey drippings to make a roux. Once you have that base, add the starchy potato water to the roux until the gravy is the desired consistency.

Words of wisdom to cooks: "Enjoy this time with your family and loved ones and start your own traditions. Don't forget the gravy. Cheers!"

Gives thanks for: I'm thankful for my successful business and all the people who support me, but most of all I'm thankful for my wife and three beautiful daughters.

Brussels Sprouts With Applewood Smoked Bacon

Serves 8

Ingredients

2 pounds Brussels sprouts

2 tablespoons butter

5 strips applewood smoked bacon, diced

A small handful of brown sugar, 1/3 to 1/2 cup

1/4 teaspoon cinnamon or more to taste

Fresh nutmeg

Salt and pepper to taste

Directions

Blanche brussels sprouts in boiling water for 4 minutes, then shock in ice water to stop the cooking. Drain.

Cook diced bacon in large saute pan or skillet until fat is rendered and bacon is lightly crisp.

Add butter to the bacon fat over medium-high heat. When hot, add the brown sugar and cinnamon, and grate the nutmeg twice into the pan. Let the sauce cook and thicken slightly. Add the brussels sprouts and cook, tossing them in the pan sauce until they begin to brown and caramelize. Add salt and pepper to taste. Toss to distribute the seasonings; taste and adjust, if needed. Serve.

Michelle Weaver, executive chef, Charleston Grill at Charleston Place

Michelle Weaver

Executive chef, Charleston Grill at Charleston Place

About Weaver: She is Alabama born and raised and a graduate of New England Culinary Institute. Weaver worked as executive sous chef under executive chef Bob Waggoner for 11 years until assuming the top spot in January.

Special memories: Traditions for her family Thanksgivings have been turkey with cornbread dressing (not stuffing), cheese grits, gravy, sweet potato souffle and Brussels sprouts with bacon.

"Since I now work all holidays and my family is so far away, my friends and I try to get together the week or so before for our own celebration. Everyone brings something from their own family tradition, such as Bryson's shrimp casserole or Teresa's green bean casserole. We enjoy the food, wine and friendship."

Words of wisdom to cooks: "Don't try and do everything by yourself in one day. Start a couple of days before with a few projects each day and have other people bring things as well."

Gives thanks for: "I am thankful for my family and friends who are always so supportive and loving."

Sweet Potato Biscuits With Maple Butter

Ingredients

2 cups all-purpose flour

3 tablespoons brown sugar

2 1/2 teaspoons baking powder

8 tablespoons butter, cold and small diced

1 cup sweet potato, roasted, peeled and mashed

1/3 cup buttermilk

Maple Butter (recipe follows)

Directions

Sift flour, sugar and baking powder together. Cut cold butter into flour mixture. It should look like cornmeal. Mix potato and buttermilk together. Fold into flour mixture. Firm into a ball.

Sprinkle a little flour on the work surface. Pat ball down to about a half an inch. Use a biscuit cutter and punch out biscuits. Roll up and repeat. Place in 425-degree oven and cook for about 15-20 minutes.

Maple Butter

1 stick unsalted butter, softened

2 tablespoons maple syrup

Mix with a fork until smooth. Leave at room temperature.