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The Ocean Room's chef pays attention to detail, technique

By Angel Powell, Special to The Post and Courier
Thursday, November 5, 2009


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Chef Nathan Thurston (front) stands with the culinary team of the Ocean Room at The Sanctuary at Kiawah Island Golf Resort.

Nathan Thurston, chef of The Ocean Room, has been a member of the culinary team since the opening of The Sanctuary. Thurston is a graduate of the highly acclaimed Johnson & Wales University with degrees in business and culinary arts. Thurston also has trained at the four star and four diamond Biltmore Estate (Asheville, N.C.), Josephine's Cafe (Marion, N.C.), The White Horse Inn (Madison, Wis.), The Vineyards (Winston-Salem, N.C.), The Atlantic Room (Kiawah Island) and Jasmine Porch (Kiawah Island).

Q: What's your first memory of food?

A: Helping my mother make French toast. French toast is one of my favorite dishes to make, especially for brunch. In fact one of my signature French toasts is still on the menu at Jasmine Porch (where I was previously the chef) Vanilla Bourbon French Toast made from Hawaiian Bread. We used to sell so much of that one cook could devote their entire morning to making it during our busy summer months.

Q: What do you cook at home?

A: Cooking opportunities are rare at home. However, when I have the time I love to make risotto, bolognese and fresh pasta and, of course, slow roasted pork butt.

Q: What mistakes do you see home cooks make?

A: I often see home chefs avoiding dishes that take time and attention. I know in today's lifestyles time is of the essence. However, I am concerned about the lack of slow-cooking techniques such as braising that aren't happening these days. These are the techniques that many chefs are the most passionate about.

Q: What's your favorite cookbook?

A: "The Escoffier Cookbook." This book defines cooking objectively and should be the foundation for any chef. I find myself constantly referencing it to refine my craft.

Q: What's your signature dish?

A: My signature dish seems to change with the seasons. My current one is definitely "fall" on a plate. Heirloom Squash Risotto with Shaved White Alba Truffle, Thyme Foam, & Pumpkin Greens. We stop and see Sidi Limehouse, our favorite vegetable farmer, every day to pick his amazing heirloom squash, such as butternut, acorn and spaghetti.

Q: What made you decide to become a chef?

A: I started washing dishes at the age of fifteen. I noticed the cooks were always laughing and had a camaraderie that I desired. I got my first shot on grill and have not looked back since.

Q: Favorite kitchen gadget?

A: The "Smoking Gun" by Poly Science. This neat little gadget can apply smoke flavor to any dish or item utilizing any smoke flavors such as tobacco, cinnamon, tea, etc.

Q: What do you feel is your greatest accomplishment as a chef?

A: Definitely it's obtaining the chef de cuisine position at The Ocean Room. It was originally my dream to obtain this position and now I have it. Each and every day is like living in a dream, except I am in control.

Q: Who is your favorite chef outside of Charleston?

A: After working with Charlie Trotter this spring, he gets my vote. Charlie and I both embrace excellence. Without excellence, restaurants of our caliber would be instant failures. Excellence is everything to me.

Q: Who is your favorite Charleston chef?

A: Sean Brock. He is mad man. There are very few local chefs out there that are pig wranglers, farmers and mad scientists on top of running one of Charleston's top restaurants. I am still trying to figure out how he does it.

If you go

The Ocean Room at The Sanctuary.

One Sanctuary Beach Drive, Kiawah Island.

768-6253.

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