El Mercadito

With the recent additions of the Golden Cup Cafe and Sunrise Bistro, the intersection of Maybank Highway and Main Road is becoming quite the tasty corridor.

Of course, credit is owed to the junction king, El Mercadito (requisite translation: small marketplace).

We could lament that a few years back El Mercadito traded smaller digs for a larger spot next door at the Piggly Wiggly shopping center, expanded the menu, but in the process perhaps lost a measure of authenticity.

Now, decor tends to the obvious: booths patterned in margaritas and sarapes or blankets; the walls draped with imagery of old Mexico; and a glossy menu typical of many Mexican restaurants.

That said, and out of the way, the food remains good and at a premium value. Monday through Friday, the lunchtime buffet runs just $5.50. Have your fill of first-rate tacos (ground beef or chicken), flautas and all the extras: a soft, mellow guacamole, salsa cruda, tomatillo sauce and so on.

Topping our list of buffet offerings are a spicy huevos dish, a fresh broccoli vegetable jumble and marinated, shredded pork, all of it nicely done.

Other tacos can still be had, including barbecued pork, steak and chorizo ($1.50 each), as well as a number of favorites. Take your pick: sopes ($6.99), enchiladas with red or green sauce ($7.99), tortas with ham, steak or breaded steak ($6.49), carnitas ($8.50) and burritos ($9).

And, surprise, El Mercadito even lists a Speedy Gonzales special on the menu. But for our cash, and for the sake of variety, the buffet presents the best bargain.

El Mercadito

Address: 3775 Maybank Hwy.

Phone: 559-7216

Hours: 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Sun.; 11 a.m.-9:30 p.m. Mon.-Thu.; 11 a.m.-10 p.m., Fri.-Sat.