Alluette's Jazz Cafe: A southern muse on Marion square

Alluette Jones-Smalls is the Holy City's muse. In her holistic-soul food-Southern restaurants, Alluette's Cafe and Alluette's Jazz Cafe, you will find a supporter of local, regional and seasonal products. You will be assured of organic produce from Fields Farm, hormone and antibiotic-free meats, and no white sugar. You might even be present when David Belanger of Clammer Dave's Sustainable Gourmet makes his delivery of freshly harvested clams and oysters.

In May, the Jones-Smalls empire expanded from their salmon-colored cafe on Reid Street to the Porgy and Bess building on Calhoun Street. They painstakingly restored the exposed brick space and created a small jazz studio for live performances of local talent: An homage in many ways to a spiritual preservation of juke joints for the 21st century. The Oscar Rivers Trio is their "house band" and the menu of musical artists changes weekly. Alluette's Jazz Club honors music both secular and spiritual. Its small space assures one of proximity both to the music and the musician.

The walls are hung with the works of Andrea Hazel, the folk artist Hambone (who is a graduate of the Culinary Institute of America) and Charles DeSaussure. Their artistry is another extension of the cultural monuments that the Jones-Smalls seek to support, celebrate and praise.

The menu has many similarities to what is offered at the cafe on Reid Street. The preparations are simple and the qualities of the ingredients speak to their freshness.

Alluette Jones-Smalls has always been a force in the restaurant industry -- from the Line Street Grill and Grocery to the Patio Tea Room, from Alluette's Restaurant and Art Gallery to her Sandwich Shoppe on St. Helena's Island. Her Gullah, Geechee, Southern roots found expression in her recipes and seasonings.

What sets the cafe and jazz club apart is the soul of a new cuisine. In a sense, Smalls-Jones found herself cured by disease. She embraced an organic lifestyle. She turned to the Old Testament scriptures of the Book of Leviticus where dietary restrictions of what is clean or unclean to eat are established. That is why you will find no pork on the menu.

Prepare to eat a considered diet. Prepare to wait as this is "take your time" food. And just like the sounds of jazz, the compositions and improvisations taste true because the kitchen of Alluette Jones-Smalls is fundamentally sound. Lester Brown along with Jones-Smalls are working the instruments on Calhoun.

Clams ($7, $12) and oysters ($8, $13) are steamed in a broth dappled with tomato bits and herbs. The flavors are fresh and the clams remarkably tender. Every pita wedge will be called into service to mop up the tasty essences.

The house salad ($8) is topped with roasted seasonal vegetables. It is substantial. The greens are dressed with an herbal vinaigrette and each bite delivers a different flavor profile thanks to curly endive, arugula and lamb's lettuce.

Sandwiches ($11-$12) are served with a side of organic coleslaw and feature breads from Saffron Bakery. Signature chicken salad, along with burgers, roast beef, turkey, hummus and a daily special are prepared with hormone-free meats, organic produce and whole grain breads.

Entrees ($14-$18) change with the season. Expect to see seared shrimp ($18) with grilled vegetables; baked tilapia ($16), roast beef ($16) and chicken ($14, $16).

The chicken was delicious, tender, succulent and sprinkled with thyme. End-of-season yellow squash, zucchini, red peppers and onions were grilled and served with sweet potato shards. The seasoning was balanced; the cooking, accurate.

The words of Dead Prez in "Eat Healthy" came to mind. When was the last time you heard a band quote Hippocrates or Adelle Davis? Reminding you that food is your medicine and you are what you eat. That "lentil soup is mental soup; and ginger root is good for youth." These are principles that inform the menu at the jazz cafe.

Quibbles include burning sticks of incense that compete with the fresh aromas of the food and inconsistent dinner service times.

Alluette's maintains a Web site. It would be good to see a calendar of musicians listed by date of performance.

A meal here is not inexpensive but the quality, integrity, flavors and portion size command the premium. Alluette's Jazz Club offers a joyful noise and a healthy belly. Even Hippocrates would approve.

Restaurant review

Cuisine: American.

Category: Neighborhood favorite; jazz club.

Phone: 737-0090; 737-0108.

Location: 137 Calhoun St.

Food: ¤¤¤ 1/2

Service: ¤¤¤ 1/2

Atmosphere: ¤¤¤ 1/2

Price: $$-$$$

Costs: Appetizers $8-$13, soups and salads $8-$10.50, sandwiches $8.50-$10.50, baskets $11-$12, entrees $14-$18. Kid's menu $4.95-$7.95.

Vegetarian Options: Yes and vegan.

Bar: Full service bar.

Hours: 11:30 a.m.-2 a.m.

Decibel Level: Varies.

Parking: Metered street parking, city garages.

Wheelchair Access: Yes.

Other: Catering, private parties, signature salads and quiches available for purchase by special order. Fresh OnThe Menu, Certified S.C. Grown; organic when possible. www.alluettes.com; alluettescafe@hotmail.com. Dinner service times can vary during weekend live music performances. Call first and confirm times of service. Live music at 9:30 p.m. Thursday-Saturday. $5 cover charge on weekends. Live music also during lunch; call first.