Dish mindful of midfall tastes

Like many members of the cabbage family, Brussels sprouts are at their sweetest and best when grown in cool weather. (There are those who think they're even better after a light frost.)

In fact, they're as good a symbol of midfall as exists, and in recent years they've made the happy transition to trendy: We see them cooked in stock, roasted until really browned, halved and sauteed ... and now shredded.

The shredding, which can be done in just moments in a food processor equipped with the slicing (not grating) disk, cuts cooking time and results in a nicely crisp and uniform texture. (When you cook Brussels sprouts whole, often the exterior browns or even chars by the time the interior is tender. This isn't necessarily a bad thing, but it's pleasing to have an alternative.)

I'm quite certain that one of the reasons Brussels sprouts have grown in popularity is that they're often combined with bacon, and I'm not going to mess with that.

What I am going to do is cook them and their bacon with figs -- best fresh, easier to find dried -- because this is a combination made in heaven.

I cook the sprouts and figs in the rendered bacon fat, along with just enough water to help soften everything and meld the flavors together. After reducing the liquid and making sure the sprouts and figs are tender, I finish the dish with a little balsamic vinegar (sherry vinegar or lemon juice would serve the same purpose), the acidity adding just the right touch to this smoky, sweet and perfectly autumnal combo.

Brussels Sprouts With Bacon and Figs

Yield: 4 servings

Ingredients

2 tablespoons olive oil

4-8 ounces bacon, chopped

1 pound Brussels sprouts, stems trimmed

1 cup dried figs, stemmed and quartered

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 teaspoons balsamic vinegar, or more to taste.

Directions

Put a large skillet over medium heat and add oil, then bacon. Cook, stirring occasionally, until it starts to crisp, 5-8 minutes.

Meanwhile, put sprouts through feed tube of a food processor equipped with a slicing attachment and shred. (You can also do this with a mandoline or a knife.)

Add sprouts, figs and 1/4 cup water to pan; sprinkle with salt and pepper, turn heat to medium, and cook, undisturbed, until sprouts and figs are nearly tender, about 5-10 minutes.

Turn heat to medium-high and cook, stirring occasionally, until any remaining water evaporates, another 5 to 10 minutes.

Add vinegar, taste, adjust seasoning and serve.