Taco Boy

ADDRESS: 217 Huger Street

WEB: tacoboy.net

PHONE: 789-3333.

HOURS: 11 a.m.-2 p.m. daily.

Situated near the bottom of the Ravenel Bridge, Taco Boy's downtown restaurant can't match the views of its brother on Folly Beach.

Tractor-trailers steaming across I-26 have a way of clouding the landscape. But rest assured, it's a minor blotch.

The new joint looks great, with multicolored stained-glass squares filtering light from behind the bar, communal tables, stained concrete, an outsized patio (fountains and a jasmine wall coming soon) and a purposely distressed exterior. Give it up a for a green renovation.

Some cynics have pooh-poohed its location on Huger Street, not exactly a hot spot for other bars and restaurants. That's fair, but bet against REV Foods — the brains behind Taco Boy, Raval, Monza and Poe's Tavern — at your own accord. There's a reason behind the smug grin of Taco Boy's mascot, i.e. the Hamburglar-looking rapscallion. REV has it down, building winning concepts at each turn.

Old favorites (old being relative, the original Taco Boy hasn't hit puberty) adorn the downtown menu, including the salsa trio ($3.25) and fresh guacamole ($8.95) appetizers. And make way for the new Taco Boy Nachos ($6.95), a heap of salty chips covered with cowboy beans, Monterey Jack cheese, drizzles of sour cream and a ball of guacamole.

We can't say enough about the salad ($7.95), a crunchy, savory, fresh mix of bell peppers, roasted corn salsa and avocado, crowned with beautifully seared ahi tuna (add $5.95).

Tacos, platters and quesadillas make up the menu's backbone, washed down with a heady selection of margaritas and Mexican beers.

— Rob Young