SHINE: Upper King restaurant illuminates world cuisines

In 2007 the former Rabens Tavern at King and Line streets changed hands. The new owner, Dean Johnson, promised a green renovation and even named this new restaurant Renew to reflect both the materials and enviro-friendly techniques that would be used in its rehab. Committed to sustainable development and the mixed use of upper King Street, Johnson's project was completed this spring and renamed Shine.

The restaurant's logo, designed by Jason Fletcher, illuminates the brand strategy with modern grace and strategic "lighting."

The design is continued in the use of chandeliers from neo-classic to Art Deco styles hung throughout the restaurant and bar along with shimmering iridescent tiles wrapping the bar and the kitchen's pass. The creative use of pattern and light makes Shine one of the more visually interesting restaurants to open this year.

The sculptural look to its chairs and the adaptive reuse of wood to craft the tabletops marries the modern to the traditional. Its misstep, however, is in the height of the banquettes' to that of the tables and chairs. A bit of the Goldilocks effect in too high and too low.

A triumvirate of chefs runs the kitchen and the world is their pantry. Grab your culinary passport and get stamped in Thailand with a burrito ($6, $8), China with a shrimp cocktail with chili sauce ($8), Japan with cauliflower tempura ($6) or Italy with pasta ($15).

The menu is divided into street fare, diner fare, meat and two, and sides. It is a curious assortment as I cannot imagine a tater tot casserole ($5) being consumed street-side or what lamb meatballs ($15) or blue cheese cream sauce on rigatoni ($15, $17) have in common with the diner genre.

Complimentary pita crisps with hummus could benefit from a nudge of oil to smooth out the roughness of the garbanzo beans.

We tried the arepas ($7) a South American cornmeal bread, griddled, split and filled with pork and black beans. The combination is then topped with cheese, cilantro and avocado. A marriage of great flavors marred only by the tartness of the sofrito.

This same level of acidity was present in the ginger broth served with bulgogi ($7) — Korea's answer to barbecue. This is a dish that would be better if served with the traditional condiments of chili paste, rice and lettuce leaf wrappers.

The burgers ($12) are two-fisted affairs served on grilled sourdough bread.

Salads can be topped with shrimp, steak ($4) or chicken ($2). The grilled Caesar ($6) had little evidence of doing any time on the grill (no char, no wilt, and no smoky flavors). Its dressing, usually a robust combination of anchovy, garlic and lemon, was bland.

The kitchen fared better with chile-brined pork chop ($18) and pulled barbecue chicken ($14). But shine was the operative word when it came to the sides.

Cauliflower's taste and texture triumphed by roasting. The Yukon mashed potatoes were a buttery elixir and the grill did to the asparagus what it failed to do for the Caesar salad. The grilled corn slathered in aioli and rolled in queso fresco nailed the flavor of this true Mexican street food, but the corn was soggy.

The dessert menu is brief. A chocolate cake glazed with cranberries ($6) and a novelty sundae with chocolate covered bacon ($5). It's pretty much a culinary given that everything tastes better with bacon and chocolate is no exception. As bizarre as this dish sounds, it works.

Cold, creamy vanilla ice cream; sweet chocolate enrobing salty bacon, crunchy peanuts and the distinct flavor of a maraschino cherry satisfy all your tastebuds with a dose of umami.

The wait staff at Shine is friendly and earnest but green. Service was a pinball game where they were zigging and zagging from table to table and then to the kitchen pass to pick up their orders.

The look and design of Shine illuminates its potential.

Chef Dillon Snider is accustomed to small kitchens and world bazaar menus. With a little reflection, this latest player in the upper King bar and restaurant scene can polish the tarnish of seasoning and timing missteps, increase the bar staffing and invest in the training of the wait staff. They have the enthusiasm and that you can't train for.

SHINE

CUISINE: Global.

CATEGORY: Neighborhood Favorite.

PHONE: 843-724-6789.

ADDRESS: 58 Line St., Charleston.

FOOD: ***

SERVICE: **

ATMOSPHERE: *** 1/2

PRICE: $- $$

COSTS: Appetizers (street and diner fare) $7-$18, pastas and burgers $12-$17, salads $6-$10, meat and two $14-$20, sides $3-$4, desserts $5-$6.

VEGETARIAN OPTIONS: Yes.

BAR: Full service bar, specialty cocktails, sake menu.

HOURS: Tuesday through Saturday: Lunch 11 a.m.-2 p.m., dinner 5-11 p.m., bar service until 2 a.m.; restaurant open between lunch and dinner services.

DECIBEL LEVEL: Varies.

PARKING: Adjacent gravel lot.

WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes.

OTHER: Daily specials, entertainment, shinecharleston.com.