Fiery Ron's Home Team BBQ

Restaurant covers the bases from west of the Ashley to east of the Cooper

When the smoking ban went into effect on Sullivan's Island, it extinguished the fire for many loyal patrons of Bert's Bar who enjoyed a butt with their brews and whose preferred ash was that of tobacco, not hickory or oak.

This Sullivan's Island institution served its last round in 2007. But like a culinary Phoenix, another smoker was soon to rise from 2209 Middle St.

This property was purchased by Aaron Siegel, chef and co-owner of Fiery Ron's Home Team BBQ, along with Randy Abraham. The footprint of Bert's has remained pretty much the same with the addition of a smoker-cooker and outdoor patio seating.

They did not attempt to fix what was not broken and the menu mirrors their West Ashley offerings. They have expanded their starters, added smoked turkey and brisket, subtracted steak as a taco and a salad topper and enhanced their platter assortment.

The look and feel is similar. They continue to re-use burlap seed, feed and coffee bean sacks; recycle aluminum cans as lamp shades; and decorate in the vernacular of concrete and corrugated tin.

Vintage DeKalb corn posters hang with those of Stevie Ray Vaughan and Stevie Wonder. And the ubiquitous Coppertone Girl is there to remind we are at the beach, after all.

A small area is set aside for live music performances and the bluegrass is complimentary on Wednesdays.

They have opened the front of the restaurant to give you a catbird seat view of Middle Street. Great for people watching and having "the only frozen Margarita on the island" with BBQ nachos ($8.25).

The carefully orchestrated menu honors the totemic foods of barbecue: pork, ribs and beef.

They judge not whether you like your ribs ($9.95-$21.95) wet or dry. They anoint them with a dry rub, let the smoke do its transformation and you can douse them with mustard, tomato, hot pepper or vinegar sauces.

They are ecumenical when it comes to sauces at Fiery Ron's.

You will find no arguments about mustard, vinegar, tomato-based or even white.

They take the full measure of their smokers and fill them with chicken ($6.95, $9.95), turkey ($8.95), brisket ($11.95) and sausage ($6.95) along with tomatoes for their salsa, mushrooms for their black bean quesadillas ($7.95) and poblanos for their vinaigrette.

Finding wraps ($7.95), tacos ($2.75-$3.50) and quesadillas ($7.95-$8.95) on the menu at a barbecue joint are not your usual "que fare" but Fiery Ron's spikes them with chipotle (smoked jalapenos) flavored sour cream, a smoked tomato red sauce or smoked corn chile verde and carries the "q" idiom with perfect pitch.

Fried catfish ($12.95), grilled shrimp ($13.95) and a vegetable platter ($7.50) are available for those who care not to hanker down with smoke and fire, porcine or bovine.

The word on the street is that the burger ($7.95) is a keeper.

Combination platters ($12.95-$15.95) allow you to have it your way. The salads ($7.95-$8.50) are substantial and can be topped with any of the smoked meats or an up-charge for grilled shrimp.

The ribs (combo) were tender.

Ropey strands of pulled pork stood on their own merit and welcomed the tang of vinegar.

The brisket turned from tough to tender but lacked the pink ring from the careful tender of smoke.

The smoked sausage sandwich ($6.95) cushioned pork with crisped edges and a charred belly layered with coleslaw, pickled okra and mustard barbecue sauce. Warm the roll and you have sandwich heaven.

The sliders are chilled too quickly by the topping of slaw and a cold bun. These little bites are all about contrast and Fiery Ron's fell short on execution.

The sides were uneven. Collards were enhanced by bits of burnt ends; the mac and cheese was dry. The slaw was crisp, sweet and studded with celery seeds, needing just a splash of cider vinegar to marry well with the barbecue.

Smoked chicken chili can be had as a side (a nice treat) and is served with sour cream, cheddar cheese and jalapenos.

It had all the fixin's for a hit. Jalapenos for heat, red and orange peppers for color and flavor, onions for sweetness and thigh meat for succulence, but it was just too soupy for its moniker.

Servers were first rate; hustling to get food out for beach-weary families, patient with those having cocktails and queso, sensitive to large groups.

General manager Sean Daniher does that old-fashioned "management by walking around," chatting up the guests, making suggestions, clearing and serving.

A partner to both his servers and his kitchen.