Turn down temperature

For some people, it's hard to imagine soup other than in a steaming bowl.

But cold soup, once you get used to the idea, can be a refreshing change of pace for a sweltering summer day.

Carla Snyder, who co-wrote "300 Sensational Soups" with Meredith Deeds, said lots of people are familiar with gazpacho, or vichyssoise, which is associated with fancy French cuisine. Beyond that, cold soups are still a bit of a mystery to many, she said.

Cold soups typically showcase fresh vegetables or fruits and are easy to put together, often requiring no cooking. A cold soup is perfect for a light summer meal, but also works well as an appetizer or dessert.

Chef Rodney Hunt of Robert J. Events & Catering in Akron, Ohio, said he often serves cold soup as an appetizer, presenting it in a shooter or cordial glass. He said a small shot of soup is perfect for the food trend of small plates, and makes a surprising appetizer.

"Chilled soup is a little more refreshing," he said.

For parties at home, Snyder said, using shot glasses, perhaps ones that have been collected over the years from traveling, is a fun way to display a collection of vacation memorabilia.

When preparing cold soups, always begin with the freshest produce because it will provide the backbone for the soup.

"With summer soups, the quality of the ingredients is really key," Snyder said.

With melon soups, for example, a watery bland melon will produce a soup of the same quality.

Soups can be pureed in a blender or food processor, or with an immersion blender. Snyder said a traditional blender will inject more air into a puree and make for a smoother, more velvety soup.

Cold soups typically require more seasoning than hot soups because they aren't being heated, which helps to release the flavors of herbs and spices.

Snyder said some cold soups are made hot and then chilled. When cooking, they may taste just right, but after chilling, their flavors may not be as intense, so it's always a good idea to taste them cold and adjust the flavors.

Many cold soups call for the addition of heavy cream or sour cream, and Snyder said it's OK to lighten them up with yogurt or a lighter cream.

However, taking out fat is another reason to increase the spice and seasoning. "Bump up the flavors a little bit when you cut the fat because you cut back on the soup's ability to carry flavor forward," she said.

Cold Cherry Soup With Kirsch

Makes 6 to 8 servings

Ingredients

2 pounds ripe red cherries, pitted with pits reserved

1 cup water

1 cup medium-dry wine, such as Riesling or Gewurztraminer

1/4 cup sugar

1/4 cup fresh lemon juice

1/4 cup kirsch

1 tablespoon grated or shredded lemon zest, plus extra for garnish

2 1/2 cups sour cream

Fresh mint sprigs

Directions

Note: Kirsch, a German cherry liqueur, is not sweet like cherry brandy. If it's difficult to find in liquor stores, it can be omitted from the recipe. Plain yogurt can be substituted for the sour cream, and frozen pitted cherries can be substituted when fresh ones aren't in season.

In a large saucepan, combine the cherry pits, water, wine, sugar and lemon juice over medium heat. Bring to a boil, reduce heat to low and simmer, uncovered, for about 5 minutes. Remove from the heat, cover and let steep for 5 minutes more. Pour the liquid through a strainer set inside a bowl. Discard the pits.

Return the liquid to the pan. Add the pitted cherries, reserving about 1/3 cup in a covered bowl in the refrigerator. Over medium heat, bring the liquid back to a boil, reduce the heat and simmer gently for 5 minutes more.

In small batches, puree the soup in a food mill, a food processor fitted with the metal blade or in a blender, taking care to avoid splattering. Transfer to a mixing bowl and stir in the kirsch and lemon zest. Let the soup cool to warm room temperature, then cover tightly and refrigerate until well-chilled, 2 to 3 hours. Chill serving bowls.

Before serving, put 2 cups of the sour cream in a tureen and whisk briefly to liquefy it slightly. Then gradually whisk in the soup.

Ladle into the chilled bowls and garnish with dollops of the remaining sour cream, the reserved cherries, lemon zest and mint sprigs.

— Williams-Sonoma Kitchen

Shrimp Cocktail Soup With Horseradish Cream

Makes 6 to 8 servings

Ingredients

For the soup:

8 cups chilled vegetable cocktail, such as V8

1/4 cup Worcestershire sauce

2 tablespoons prepared horseradish

2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice

1 teaspoon celery salt

1 teaspoon cracked black pepper

1 pound medium shrimp, peeled and halved lengthwise

Juice of 1 lemon

2 tablespoons minced fresh chives

For the horseradish cream:

1/2 cup whipping cream

1 tablespoon prepared horseradish

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Directions

In a large pitcher, combine vegetable juice, Worcestershire sauce, horseradish, 2 tablespoons lemon juice, celery salt and pepper. Taste and adjust seasoning with celery salt, pepper, lemon juice or horseradish, if necessary. Cover and refrigerate until cold, about 3 hours. Taste and adjust seasoning if necessary.

Meanwhile, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add shrimp and lemon juice. Cover, remove from heat and let stand for 3 minutes. Drain shrimp and plunge into an ice bath to cool quickly. Drain again and pat dry. The shrimp will have curled into attractive corkscrew shapes. Cover and refrigerate until ready to serve, for up to 3 hours.

Prepare the horseradish cream: In a bowl, beat cream with a whisk or mixer until thick. Fold in horseradish and salt and pepper to taste. Cover and refrigerate until ready to serve, for up to 24 hours.

Pour soup into chilled bowls and garnish with shrimp and horseradish cream. Sprinkle with chives.

— "300 Sensational Soups"