Taking the train still has romance
By Robert Behre
Photo Gallery
Riding Amtrak
Riding Amtrak's Silver Meteor from New York to Charleston isn't any faster than driving, but it's a much different experience. Here are some images of the kinds of things you see along the way.
ON BOARD THE SILVER METEOR — Taking the train isn't the fastest way to get from New York City to Charleston, and it's not necessarily the cheapest, but for about a dozen people who got on board last Sunday at Pennsylvania Station, it was the right choice.
For Annette Middleton of New York, riding Amtrak is something she has done dozens of times. "Growing up, it was just the way we traveled. I don't mind the long ride," she said. "There's more time to wind down."
Middleton's sister, Marrissa Pelletier, said she also enjoys the chance to relax and meet other people. With her four youngest children accompanying her on this trip, she valued the savings over an airline flight.
"I'm not a flier," Pelletier said. Last month's emergency landing of a passenger plane in the Hudson River "didn't help my fears."
Ludivine Renaud lives in Charleston but grew up in France, where train travel is common. "I'd rather take the train than drive," she said. "I fall asleep driving."
And Jay Hopkins of Bridgeport, Conn., said he also is no fan of driving long distances, and chose this way to visit his girlfriend in Charleston. "I thought there was a great romance to riding the rails," he said. "It was also a matter of convenience."
They sat near one another in the last coach car as the train glided out of the station promptly at 3:15 p.m.
Barring any big delays, they were scheduled to arrive in Charleston about 14 hours later, just after 5 a.m. — about the same time it would take to drive, provided gas stops and other breaks would be kept at a minimum.
Theirs is the kind of trip being taken by a growing number of Americans — Amtrak's ridership has climbed for six straight years and now numbers more than 28 million annually — but it also would illustrate the challenges facing the government-owned passenger railroad as it chugs into the future.
Room to roam
Known as train No. 97, the Silver Meteor is one of two trains that leave New York for Charleston each day.
It offers a dining car, lounge, three coach cars and three sleeper cars for those who don't mind paying a bit more to avoid trying to sleep in a reclining upholstered seat. Those riding coach paid $86.
After gliding under the Hudson River, the passengers had a few hours to savor the scenery as New Jersey and Pennsylvania slid by their windows.
Unlike an airplane, where everyone is urged to remain seated and buckled, people onboard are free to wander. There aren't any seat belts, and passengers regularly drift up to the lounge car, pushing a button that opens the metal door between cars along the way.
A conductor wrote "CHS" on a paper card and stuck it above Renaud's seat to indicate her destination. She found that very dated, but did like something else about the train. "The restroom is really big," she said. "In France, they're all small and tiny."
Hopkins made a dining car reservation and ate just before 6 p.m. He later said the $23 he paid for crab cakes, a baked potato and vegetables was a bit much. "The portion I was given would have been a respectable appetizer," he said.
Also, he was puzzled why he was asked to eat at a table with strangers when other empty tables were available. That's what happens in coach, too, where passengers are assigned seats together even if there's room for them to spread out.
Lights out
It's dark as the train pulls into Union Station in Washington around 7 p.m.; it has a 30-minute layover as it changes engines from an electric-powered one to diesel power.
The northeast, home to Amtrak's busiest stations, has tracks with power lines overhead, enabling some of its most advanced trains like the Acela to travel at speeds of more than 130 mph.
South of Washington, however, the diesel locomotives mostly travel at double-digit speeds.
In Virginia, a train official comes on the public address system just before 10 p.m. to say that smokers can get off the train in Richmond long enough to light up — and that they won't be able to do so again until the train arrives in Florence several hours deeper into the night.
He also said there would be no further announcements so people could catch some sleep.
After 10 p.m. the lights dim and it's too dark to read Amtrak's "Arrive" magazine or anything else, even though passengers can leave on their small directional lights overhead.
(It also was too dark to read the safety card and its helpful advice, such as "1. Never exit a moving train.")
Seats are reclined, eyelids fall, and voices are hushed.
The quiet didn't help Hopkins much, who wrestled his 6-foot-5-inch frame around in two seats. At least his seatmate got off the train in Rocky Mount, N.C.
"When that guy showed up, I had to move over and the heat registers are right on the window sill," he said. "It was blasting. I'm wearing a T-shirt and wanting to take that off."
Others had to stretch out in one seat, hoping not to disturb their seatmate.
The few gazing groggily out their window after midnight probably wondered why the train is slowly moving backward, easing past the East Granville Church of God in Dunn, N.C.
While that backward movement proved mercifully brief, the train stopped for longer stretches as it headed south. Or maybe it just seemed that way.
Only 40 minutes late
Eventually the train chugs across the state line into South Carolina in the early a.m. hours. As it approached the Kingstree station, Renauld called a friend who will pick her up, mistakenly thinking they were arriving in North Charleston.
"They don't announce when we stop. I don't know where we are," she said. "I have no idea if we're on time or not."
About a half-hour later, 18 stops after it left New York, the train reached Charleston only about 40 minutes late.
Middleton said she believes Amtrak is more on-time these days. "I think it was worse a couple of years ago," she said. "This train 97, you could bank your dollar that it was going to be late."
The North Charleston station, tucked off a side street not far from East Montague Avenue, looks as if it has changed little since it was built two generations ago. It's ringed by chain-link fencing, which does nothing for the ambiance.
The Charleston Area Regional Transportation Authority plans to build a new Amtrak station off West Montague Avenue, about two miles away, but it's waiting on some combination of about $8 million in federal money or support from a private developer hoping to build a hotel, stores or offices on part of the 36-acre site.
Whenever it opens, arriving by rail here will be much more inviting.
The future of the train station isn't unlike the future of Amtrak's entire system — apparently bright, provided more government dollars arrive.
As daylight began to break Monday, the passengers of train 97 filtered out safely throughout the Lowcountry, some of them uncertain when they might take the train next.
Reach Robert Behre at 937-5771 or rbehre@postandcourier.com.
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Printer-friendly versionComments
eyecantspel (anonymous) says...
The story was too long so I didn't read it.
As local tv news has an almost entirely "urban" audience, this story is a sign that the last few PC readers are 80 or older. Walking to the curb to get the paper gives them something to do in the AM. Checking the obits is a daily requirement.
Trains seemed cool to me, when I was 6. I have never been on a train. I don't have time now. Maybe when I'm 80.
Next Sunday, I have a few possible story ideas.
Local Man Still Uses Telegraph Machine, Says Email is a "Fad"
Charleston County School District buys 300 Beta-Max videos for Schools.
Dial-Up Internet Access... Wave of the Future?
Local Writer Takes Horse and Buggy to Atlanta, is Stabbed to Death in Augusta
Due to a Crush of Handwritten Letters, US Post Office looks into Sunday Service
February 1, 2009 at 3:26 a.m. ( permalink | suggest removal )
ballachulish (anonymous) says...
I love Amtrak!
It's relaxing and the scenery is fabulous.
BTW I'm not 80 or even close...
February 1, 2009 at 6:31 a.m. ( permalink | suggest removal )
Neponset (anonymous) says...
I am not 80 yet. I have ridden trains in the US and in Europe and to me they make sense for shorter trips. Would also lighten the load on our over loaded flyways. Also I believe trains are more fuel efficient (lets say more green), per passenger mile.
February 1, 2009 at 6:47 a.m. ( permalink | suggest removal )
ballachulish (anonymous) says...
I just wish we had a TGV or bullet train in the States.
Not only are they fast, I've been on one that went 275 kph, they're quite luxurious.
February 1, 2009 at 7:33 a.m. ( permalink | suggest removal )
coolfreaknbeans (anonymous) says...
I would like for them to have discussed the options other than coach, as well as the cost. I guess I can assume the $86 is one way? I haven't taken a train since I was a kid. My friends Grandad was the conductor so it was pretty cool. I wouldn't be opposed to taking a train if the cost was right and not in coach. (they made it sound uncomfortable) I checked flight prices the other day and a round trip flight to the north east was only $188. You'd think the train would be much cheaper.
February 1, 2009 at 9:13 a.m. ( permalink | suggest removal )
lizedben (anonymous) says...
My son's college town, just outside Philly, has a train station, so he can leave North Charleston, take one train to Philly, and another to school, then walk a half mile to his dorm. It's fantastic! It takes exactly the same amount of time to drive. I wish we had better rail service in the south. And yes, the $86 is for one-way. My son uses a Student Advantage discount card. There are other discounts available too.
February 1, 2009 at 9:15 a.m. ( permalink | suggest removal )
Cid95 (anonymous) says...
Yes, trains are so old-fashioned...
Like the magnetic levitation one from Shanghai's Pudong area to the airport - it goes over 400 km/h (no typo there). I felt like I was on an airplane close to the ground.
Just because OUR train system seems antiquated, doesn't mean trains are old fashioned. We just need to get our game together and modernize into the 21st century (or at least up to the standards of the later half of the 20th century).
February 1, 2009 at 9:19 a.m. ( permalink | suggest removal )
coolfreaknbeans (anonymous) says...
Out of curiousity I checked out Amtrak prices. A round trip airfare for my north east destination was only $188 during normal functioning hours. A round trip train ticket to the same destination was $334.00! That was with a qualifying discount too! Not to mention the hours of travel were beyond jacked up. I think my arrival time was like 1:33 a.m. and no checked baggage for part of my trip. WTH? I now have NO desire to travel by train. It's more expensive and less convenient.
February 1, 2009 at 9:46 a.m. ( permalink | suggest removal )
rebcsc (anonymous) says...
For "Neponset":
Regarding fuel use per passenger mile ...
I did some research on that a good while back so I don't remember the exact units but ...
Airplanes (jets) use about 37 or 38 units per passenger mile; autos use about 35 or 36 units/ passenger mile.
Trains use somewhere between 22 to 24 units/ passenger mile, a marked savings in cost and energy.
I don't know if anyone has noticed but there isn't any east-west passenger rail service in the South since the Jacksonville to New Orleans route was closed for Katrina. Even though the rail line has been repaired no passenger service has resumed. A person has to take the train from Charleston to Washington, DC to get to Atlanta and New Orleans.
"eyecantspel" has more problems than his spelling. He obviously also too lazy to read and learn something. He probably has no concept of walkable versus ride only communities and that a more fuel efficient form of mass transportation, quite possibly rail, may become the main form of long distance travel in his future. It makes a lot more sense than walking if you can't afford or can't get gasoline to run your car and air travel has become cost prohibitive because of fuel costs.
I wonder what he or she thinks about sailing?
February 1, 2009 at 9:49 a.m. ( permalink | suggest removal )
Neponset (anonymous) says...
reb
Thanks for your support.
If we could get those bone head/crooks in Washington to support passenger rail as they have supported air and highway travel we could have an up to date rail system and it does not mean we need to go 400 k/hr, just improve tracks etc so existing trains can go at optimum speed and have more lines than exist today. I haven't flown recently, but it sounds like a real bitch to fly and driving is tedious and expensive.
February 1, 2009 at 10:12 a.m. ( permalink | suggest removal )
MSC (anonymous) says...
eyecantspel,
Your post was too long so I didn't read it.
February 1, 2009 at 10:18 a.m. ( permalink | suggest removal )
coolfreaknbeans (anonymous) says...
I haven't taken a train in forever johnnyholmes. But I went to amtrak.com and priced a trip that I had priced on priceline. $334 vs $188 is a bit of a difference, especially considering the travel times. I would love to travel by train. Flying is annoying and driving is beyond annoying. I'll keep checking and see if anything changes, but as of now that was the current price.
February 1, 2009 at 10:52 a.m. ( permalink | suggest removal )
AAE (anonymous) says...
Rail travel is part of the experience of travel. It is not just a means to get to the good part of "vacation" as fast as possible. If you don't like seeing the USA other than billboards and highways, chatting with fellow passengers you never would have met otherwise, reading a good book, and taking cat naps as you please while being rocked to sleep.... don't travel by train. Schedules and length of the trip will just frustrate you. For those of us who relish "travel," not just a destination, it's fabulous.
February 1, 2009 at 10:56 a.m. ( permalink | suggest removal )
Zod (anonymous) says...
15 Billion dollars of the US Dept. of Transportation budget subsidizes your cheap plane ticket EVERY YEAR.
February 1, 2009 at 11:47 a.m. ( permalink | suggest removal )
512c (anonymous) says...
I do wish we had more trains/rails than cars. Since we spend about 24Billion a month on Wars we don't have money to invest in the 12Billion worth of work just to get our car bridges serviced, so, we should cut back on cars, roads etc.. and invest in rails more, and less in war!
February 1, 2009 at 12:22 p.m. ( permalink | suggest removal )
zoomru (anonymous) says...
ZOD........ BINGO !!!
Citizens....this article is CRAP !!!!!
Yes ...RAIL is for FREIGHT ..BUT, when it come to passengers the REAL story is NOT being Told..!!! Technology has changed so MUCH that Elevated bullet speed transit is where the Profitable answer lies. If it PROFITABLE, then why do we NOT have it in use you ask?? Rail does NOT own the technology and will not ALLOW the use of its easements "ABOVE" its track at 80 and 100 ft !! Think of that view !!! The other reason it that it is NOT Diesel based or Coal Based transit and the energy LOBBY does ....WHAT !?!?!
We have so much potential here in South Carolina; BUT, do you even KNOW it??? Well, thank your newspapers and TV reporters !!! They still bow at technology that moved TROOPS during the CIVIL WAR !!! ....and WE are still SLAVES to WHAT ????
February 1, 2009 at 12:26 p.m. ( permalink | suggest removal )
studley (anonymous) says...
Thank you for a splendid article. Those criticizing need to get a life.
As one who consults frequently in the north east (New York, Boston, Hartford) I use the trains and subways as often as I can. Public transportation works, and works well - there!
During a 17 month consulting engagement in Hartford my wife and I spent several weekends in NYC. She would fly up from CHS, I would take the Amtarck to Penn Station, and we would meet in a mid-town hotel. New York is great anytime of the year!
During an 11 month engagement in NYC, I had a flat in Chelsea and took the subway to work frequently. I got off at 34th St. and came up just below the Macy's sign. The subways run on time.
I got sick of the delays from LaGuardia and Newark (yes, i took the NJ Transit from Penn Station to the Newark airport). I seriously considered taking the Amtrack to Charleston several times but never did. I regret the decision.
February 1, 2009 at 2:08 p.m. ( permalink | suggest removal )
zoomru (anonymous) says...
Studley.....with all due RESPECT, why did you move to South Carolina..??? Answer: Because it is NOT New YORK !!!!! Have you looked at the BUDGET for the NYC transit system??? Does it PAY for itself??? NO !! It is subsidized by who..???
Have you EVER been to Disney WORLD ?? Have you rode the Mono-RAIL ?!?! How do you like the VIEW ??? Even the Monorail would NOT be profitable if it was in MASS use ??? WHY...you ask ?? Because it only solves ONE problem !! NOT THREE !!!
Studley....go to www.unimodal.com and ...THINK !!!
It provides a solution for ......WHAT ?
1) Another form of POWER Distribution.....
2) Another form of Communication Drstribution....
3) Used for School Busing via school ID swipe......
4) Used for City busing via Driver Lic. ID swipe.....
5) Used for package delivery between 2 and 5 AM......
6) Used for ADVERTISING Revenue to pay for PODS......
7) Can be built ABOVE present Rail, Highway, and POWER Easements to SAVE TREES.........
8) Faster and Safer than Cars and TRAINS.........
9) **A transit system that PAYS for itself ***
10) Studley ....can you THINK Of ANY more...?????
OBAMA ....WANTS ...CHANGE !!!!!
February 1, 2009 at 2:51 p.m. ( permalink | suggest removal )
SmooveB (anonymous) says...
Train travel is civilized. Air travel has become a hemorrhoid: crammed into a small bus, paying through the nose for every amenity, served by surly waitresses at 30K feet. I've taken AMTRAK up to the Mid-Atlantic and NE Corridor, reserving a sleeper car from CHS. Wake up, have coffee, read the paper over a decent breakfast, clean up and make a morning meeting feeling refreshed. A little more expensive, but worth it.
The long pole in the tent is the CSX schedule, as every freight bumps AMTRAK (the freight lines own the tracks between here and DC). We better get our rail right-of-ways straightened out before development makes it too expensive.
Other than that, I like the train. I can get work done, stretch out, walk a bit, grab a cold one, have power at my seat, etc.
February 1, 2009 at 4:21 p.m. ( permalink | suggest removal )
UrGatorbait (anonymous) says...
eyecant spell, part the new generation, they don't know the questions but have all the answers. I feel so much better.
zO0mRu!! sez my meds are missing again....
February 1, 2009 at 5:30 p.m. ( permalink | suggest removal )
skidrowjoe (anonymous) says...
Took a tirp to D.C. on the silver meteor last Feb. Thought it was great.Would love to do it again. Each seat has a 110 plug right there,so don't forget your dvd player.
February 1, 2009 at 7:15 p.m. ( permalink | suggest removal )
rebcsc (anonymous) says...
I just realized a real irony here.
I don't fly that much, but has anyone considered how airports like Atlanta and Houston would function if they didn't use "light rail" to move passengers from one part of their terminal to another?
People that fly every day never consider that they are also using rail and the consequences of its absence.
We just need to apply it in a broader sense.
February 2, 2009 at 12:10 a.m. ( permalink | suggest removal )
SpiderJohn (anonymous) says...
I take the train when I can! It is more relaxing, no security lines, big comfortable chairs in coach, dining car and easy on & off.
I think cool may have checked the business or first class option on prices, I went to Kissemmee round trip and it was only $126.00.
February 2, 2009 at 9:12 a.m. ( permalink | suggest removal )
LadyTarHeel (anonymous) says...
I take the train home to Fayetteville quite often and typically it's only $64 round-trip. I love it! It's cost just as much as paying for gas and I don't have to worry about driving. My brother goes to college just up the street from the station so he can pick me up and take me home with no problem.
February 2, 2009 at 10:45 a.m. ( permalink | suggest removal )
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