LUNCH COUNTER

Pollo Tropical

The smoke drifts from a strip mall on Dorchester Road, enticing company into Pollo Tropical. Ribs, chicken and skirt steak simmer over charcoal and fire, producing the sweet bouquet.

Behind the grill is Roberto Esquibel, a Mexico City native who, tired of "Mexican restaurants looking the same," started his al carbon eatery two months ago. His restaurant is not affiliated, he says, with the Miami-based chain, also named Pollo Tropical, which specializes in Caribbean food cooked over charcoal. Many of the chain's menu items are basted in a barbecue sauce, while Esquibel relies on smoke for flavor. The result: Aromatic masterpieces geared for carnivorous appetites.

The roster includes quarter racks, half racks and full racks of pork and beef ribs, quarter, half and whole chickens, buffalo wings, Cuban sandwiches, fajitas and the Familia Grande - a half-chicken, half-slab of ribs, fajita and four wings for $26.95.

The ribs - a quarter rack is four or five ribs - are liberally seasoned, warm and moist, and the chicken comes off the grill nicely charred, the skin a tad chewy, but finely flavored. A combo - quarter chicken, quarter pork ribs - costs $10.99. The chicken dishes are $5.98-$12.75, and the ribs run $7.95-$17.95.

The platters are huge, too, stacked with pinto beans, yellow rice, slaw, tortillas or bread. Fried yuca, sweet and fried plantains and fries are available at $2.15 each. And each meal is served with three sauces, barbecue, a fiery picante and tomatillo.

Since opening, Pollo Tropical has generated a loyal crowd. The dining area seats maybe 25, but Esquibel plans to finish renovating an adjacent store to make more room and expand the menu to include seafood.

That way, more folks can enjoy Esquibel's homemade horchata drink, a cool blend of rice milk, cinnamon and vanilla.

Pollo Tropical

Address: 5335 Dorchester Road, Unit 3

Phone: 552-0015.

Hours: 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Mon.-Sun.