Lowcountry Chileheads talk hot habits

The Post and Courier
Wednesday, September 17, 2008


The Post and Courier

What Lowcountry chileheads wrote us about their "addiction":

"The Chile-Chompin' Champ of Charleston: My husband, Henry Robles, is the local reigning champion of speed eating jalapeno peppers. The Cajun Festival, held at James Island County Park, seems to have discontinued the event. But Henry won first place the last time it was held, eating more than 30 peppers — seeds and all — in 2 minutes time, beating numerous competitors.

"In our kitchen we have devoted an entire shelf to hot sauces from around the world. One of our favorite sites to order from is "Mo Hotter, Mo Better." Henry even has his own hot sauce recipe that we have been tempted many times to market. It involves tomatillos and habaneros. Yummy! When we go to our favorite Mexican restaurant, we always ask for the salsa that they keep in back and only serve upon request. We'll slurp down a couple of bowls with the chips before the food even arrives. When we order takeout Chinese, we order everything to be prepared hot. They don't even give us a number anymore, they know us by our order.

"Henry says he's never met the chile pepper he couldn't handle with ease. He does, however, keep a roll of toilet tissue in the freezer, in the event he ever encounters such a pepper."

Sharon Robles

Mount Pleasant

* * * * *

"I have been cooking since I was a kid. I grew up as an Air Force brat, in a number of places, so I was exposed to many kinds of food. I went to college in San Antonio, Texas, where I developed a great appreciation for spicy food and peppers. We used to eat jalapenos like pickles at lunch. My wife also likes spicy food so over the years we have experimented with spices on vegetables, seafood and my famous brisket. An Indian co-worker of mine broadened our spice scope with the addition of various curry recipes. Like many people that have spent a lot of time in the South, we don't want our food to be bland. We want it to always have some kick."

Richard Houser

Hollywood

* * * * *

"So am I (a chilehead), but he is the better cook. He is also a research chemist for MeadWestvaco, and he combines his skill at creating formulas with cooking on a regular basis. Hot stuff is one of his specialties — but Rick's real finesse is that he insists that all things good are made from scratch.

"The amazing thing is that by creating a perfect chili for the chili dogs, he turns a simple fare into an amazingly knock-your-socks off meal."

This recipe makes 1 cup of chili sauce. You add in your own good-quality ground beef cooked and drained and onion for the real deal hotdog chili topping.

Red Chili Sauce

-- 8 large cloves garlic, unpeeled

-- 8 medium dried ancho chiles

-- 2/3 cup of broth or water

-- 1 1/2 teaspoons Mexican dried oregano

-- 1/2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper

-- 1/8 teaspoon freshly ground cumin seeds

-- 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground cloves

-- 1 teaspoon salt

Into a dry hot skillet toss the garlic and let them roast on medium heat. Turn them now and then until they are soft to the touch. Let them cool and then remove the husk and chop finely.

While the garlic is roasting, stem and de-seed the chiles. Toast the chiles a few at a time for a few minutes in the skillet as you did with the garlic. Then open them up and place them skin-side up on a hot surface and press them flat with a spatula. You might hear a crackle and even see a puff of smoke. That is OK if it is only a bit, but don't burn your chiles. Flip them and toast the other side. Put the toasted chiles into a bowl and cover them with water to rehydrate for 30 minutes. Then pour off and discard all the water.

Add a little of the broth, spices (except salt), garlic and drained chiles into a blender or food processor and process, scraping and stirring every now and then and adding more broth until you have a smooth puree. With a rubber spatula press the puree through a medium-mesh strainer. Add in the salt at the end.

Eva Askew-Houser

Hollywood

* * * * *

"This is a subject near and dear to me because as anyone that knows me is aware of, I am obsessed with hot food. Fresh and pickled chili peppers, hot sauce, hot wings, chili, salsa, sausage, BBQ — if it's hot, I'm into it.

"I come from big family of hot food lovers but strangely enough didn't catch the hot food bug until later in life. In fact I distinctly remember my first hot pepper experience (around the age of 4) as being pretty traumatic. As any hot food lover knows, you better want to feel the burn cause once you have it, there's not much you can except sit back and ride it out. At the time I thought I was going to die and couldn't fathom that someone would actually want to feel like their face was literally on fire.

"My taste for hot food manifested in college when I discovered that I liked the taste of Tabasco much better than anything the cafeteria was churning out. Soon dashing on turned into drenching and a full-fledged addiction was born. Tabasco led to other hot foods such as wings and chili and an unspoken quest to seek out and sample as many different kinds of hot foods as possible.

"Soon I was known amongst my friends as a hot food connoisseur, with people often asking me where the best place to get hot wings was, who made the hottest salsa I'd ever had and even, what kind of hot peppers they should grow. Often I was referred to as being "crazy" and "obsessed" by those who would watch me consume 12 "nuclear" wings and then sit back with swollen lips to enjoy the buzz. And as any true chilehead knows the taste of the hot food is attraction but the endorphin release afterward is a real bonus.

"At age 36 I feel that I have been in the game long enough to know a thing or two about hot food. I try and have hot wings once a week (Wild Wing's Braveheart wings being my all-time favorite) and consume a little over a gallon of Tabasco a year. I am always game for a chili cook-off, will never shy away from anything with a "warning" label on it and routinely ask for Thai food prepared at 15 even if the scale only goes to 10.

"So to all the other chileheads out there, I share your plight. I know how difficult it is to explain to someone with a face as red as a tomato ‘that it's not that hot." I know anxiety you feel when the pizza arrives and you discover there is only a drop of hot sauce left. I share in your urge to order anything on the menu that comes with the "eat them all and get them for free" challenge. And I can relate to the extra hours spent in the john the day after a particularly enlightening hot food experience.

"Embrace the burn."

Jay Luka

Mount Pleasant

* * * * *

"I am truly a Lowcountry chilehead!

"I developed an interest in eating spicy hot, fiery food in 1989, ordering "Killer" wings from my favorite bar and grill. They were blaze-orange, habanero-based and made your nose run and eyes tear and they were addicting! I started collecting hot sauces, and now have over 150 bottles of hot sauce from around the world displayed on top of my kitchen cabinets. When I ran out of kitchen cabinet display area, my father built me oak shelves to accommodate more bottles. My collection includes a vintage WWII-issue Tabasco bottle and personalized bottle of Tabasco. In 1997, I got three cayenne peppers tattooed on my left shoulder. I plan to add habeneros to it this fall.

"I travel with Tabasco sauce and wear Tabasco ties with a suit. I grow my own jalapenos and habeneros and have had a great harvest this summer, with more still coming! In 2000, I decided to bottle and sell my own hot barbecue sauce, called Bar-B-Kill, and did so for a couple years in Maine. I am considering doing the same in the Lowcountry."

Chris Carter

Mount Pleasant

* * * * *

"I've been a chilehead since I was in college at the University of Arizona studying marine biology and eating chimichangas at an all-night Mexican restaurant in south Tucson. When I started working in the Caribbean in the early '70s, I discovered how well habanero chiles complement Indian curries (and many other foods!).

"It seems that when chiles are discussed the focus is often on heat and Scoville units, but for me, the great thing about chiles is the variety of flavors that they bring to the table. That variety means that there's usually a chile that will pair well with whatever is on the menu. Some of my favorites are chipotle and chocolate (as in mole sauces); serranos and avocado; habaneros and limes (as in cheesecake); jalapenos and chorizo sausage in Thanksgiving stuffing.

"Besides flavor, chiles also bring a wide variety of bright colors that enhance visual appeal.

"My son and I visited Belize a couple of years ago, and couldn't get enough of their national dish, stewed chicken, which is always served with Marie Sharp's habanero sauce on the side. When we returned to Charleston, it was easy enough to duplicate the chicken, but we had a tough time finding Marie Sharp's. As a result, we buy a case via the Internet two or three times a year. As it turns out, that sauce is also quite good on tuna sandwiches.

"Chilehead? No doubt!"

Mel Goodwin

Mount Pleasant

* * * * *

"When I saw the call for Chileheads on the front page of the Food section, I immediately told my hubster, Gary, that we had to respond. He has an amazing green thumb. What started out as a "science experiment," has turned into a year round gardening event.

"Attached are a few pictures of Gary's renowned Tabasco Pepper Trees. Not plants, but trees. About five years ago our effort to grow a garden in the backyard shade again went unyielding. Except this particular Tabasco plant. We got the starter plant at a local home and garden center for less than a buck. The tiny red peppers made the plant. The time came to let nature take over to our annual gardening attempt. As we were moving our plants indoors from the back porch for the winter, Gary couldn't help but see that the Tabasco was still thriving in the garden amongst all the other decaying plants and weeds.

"He decided to see what would happen if he took the Tabasco out of the garden and put it in a pot in the garage for the winter. He mixed the potting soil with dirt from the wetlands easement near our house. He carefully tended to his project all winter, ensuring the plant had enough light and water.

"The following spring, he moved the plant out of the garage to the driveway. Low and behold, the Tabasco grew into a tree-like structure. All of all the branches sprung the tiny green peppers. He nurtured the plant all spring and before long the green peppers ripened to shiny red Tabasco peppers. He dried several of the seeds from his "tree" and started new plants in pots during the winter.

"Gary continued to move the plant into the garage each winter and the enclosed pictures are the trees as they are today. He has given many of the plants away after he has them off to a good start. As the peppers ripen, he freezes them for salsa, chili, and cans his own hot sauce. He also gives them away to friends and family. The peppers are small, but carry a mighty punch.

"One of the enclosed pictures is of one of our mockingbirds in the tree. That silly bird began eating those peppers years ago. To them, it's like a fruit. We're thankful that their nest isn't above our cars for fear the droppings would ruin the paint! The bird has gotten so good at eating the peppers, that he can actually get the pepper skin off and leave the seeds on the tree! It's pretty amazing to watch.

"We don't eat a ton of spicy food. Gary grows the plant for the enjoyment they bring to others. Just a few weeks ago a neighbor we had never met stopped and traded us a Bolivian Ornamental pepper plant for a few of the fresh Tabasco peppers. She was going to dry the seeds and start her own plant, even though we offered her one of the several we have started. But that's OK, one day those plants will go to homes of folks who have the same love of gardening as Gary."

Gary & Heidi Freeland

Summerville

* * * * *

"I don't know if I consider myself a true "chilehead." I do enjoy hot and spicy foods. I do make my own hot sauce from peppers I grow. I mix habaneros and jalapenos — you've got the hot from the habanero and the taste from the jalapenos. I really don't have a recipe. No two batches are the same. I do substitute hot sauce for ketchup and put it on everything from eggs to fries.

"I do have a collection of 25 Tabasco neckties."

Fred W. Miles

Mount Pleasant

* * * * *

"I have been a hot pepper aficionado since I was a small boy, an affinity I shared with my mother. I have collected hot pepper pods from my various travels (South Africa, Bermuda and China) and have grown them from seed. I now have a beautiful lush Thai pepper plant growing in a pot at my back steps that is chock full of red peppers. I got the pods from a Thai tourist I spotted cutting up peppers to go with his meal in a restaurant in Beijing several years ago.

"The hottest (by request) complete meal I ever had was at an Indian restaurant in Cape Town. I threw out the challenge and they measured up to the task. The hottest experience I ever had was at a restaurant on Market Street when something I ordered seemed to call for a hot sauce. When I called the waiter, he asked "How hot?" I replied that "It didn't get too hot for me." I should have known something was afoot when I saw his eyes glaze over.

"He came forth with a bottle with some clever label like "Death by Chili" or something similar. I liberally sprinkled it over my food and presently took a fork full and damned near seized up. It had absolutely no taste (not that it would have mattered because my taste buds were cooked) but boy did it have the fire. My eyes were watering, my nose running, my ears ringing and I could only make deranged wheezing noises to the amusement of my tablemates, who felt, to a man, that I had it coming. I saw four heads peeping out of the kitchen door in the back of the restaurant so I knew they had been waiting for a "It doesn't get too hot for me" person to run that sauce out on. I'm certain that it was the stuff mixed with bottom paint to keep barnacles off the bottom of boats. I'm a little more picky when somebody offers me a bottle of hot stuff."

Ben McC. Moise, retired Game Warden, freelance writer, and outdoor caterer

Charleston

* * * * *

"I have what you call a chile addiction; food without chiles is bland. I find a way to get my pepper spice into just about every meal from chili powder to the homemade fire-roasted hot sauce I make. This time of year I prefer fresh peppers directly off my plants.

"In the past I grew most of the peppers offered at Lowe's, but now I am part of an online community of chileheads, thehotpepper.com, and now I grow chiles from all around the world. We trade chile seed and help each other become successful chile farmers. I have chiles from India called Bhut Jolokia, which is the world's hottest pepper (well over 1,000,000 Scoville rating), and a chile from the Caribbean called Trinidad Scorpion, which is not far behind. I also have Tabasco, Red Savina, Bishop's Hat, Devil Tongue, Naga Morich, Fatalli, Chocolate Habanero, White Habanero, Jamaican Scotch Bonnett, Datil and the trusty Jalapeno.

"I have probably 60 to 70 plants, and 20-25 varieties. I've been growing them most of my life, seriously for about 10 years.

"I love HOT peppers. I have an online photobucket account to view my backyard pepper garden here.

"It's almost impossible for me to pick my favorite pepper. I have 20 different favorite peppers. Each are unique in their own right. But three at the top my list are the Caribbean red habanero, Satalli, and the Bhut Jolokia.

"I'll take peppers that will fill up my whole grill and fire-roast them and (to make sauce) just put vinegar, salt and sugar, four simple ingredients, including the peppers. It makes an excellent hot sauce. I definitely enjoy the hot sauces. I can it and keep it through the winter. I put hot sauce on ice cream, if you can imagine that. Hot sauce and ice cream is excellent; I love it!"

David "Cappy" Cappiello

Mount Pleasant

* * * * *

"I am a chile pepper "apassionado." I have not met one I did not like … usually the hotter the better. But not "heat" as a blood sport, rather as a flavor enhancer. I love them chopped in chili, diced in scrambled eggs or an omelet, and added to stews and gumbos via my most favorite of all potions: my homemade pepper sauce. I have been making the stuff in one form or another for about 15 years. During that time I have grown my own peppers and have experimented with blending them in my sauce. I have tried many variations of pickling the peppers, trying to get it just right. I have done my work because I never could find a commercial product that wasn't tricked up in some way, either with ingredients (sweet potatoes!) or some corny label purporting bodily harm if ingested. As a result, here is my recipe for the best pepper sauce on the planet."

Pepper Sauce Recipe

Into a covered five-gallon plastic bucket place a half bushel of washed, stemmed, and smashed habanero (or habanero-like) peppers. Pour enough white vinegar to cover the peppers. Mix in about a pound of kosher or sea salt; then top off with a layer of salt. Put the cover on the bucket, and let the peppers pickle at room temperature for at least eight weeks. Check weekly to see if any mold has crept in. If, in a rare instance it does, scrape it off with a spoon and douse the top with another layer of salt.

After eight weeks open the bucket and puree the peppers in a blender. On each pass fill the blender with peppers and up to half way with the pickling liquid. Pour the contents of each blending into a food mill and express the sauce into a batter bowl. Pour the sauce into gallon vinegar bottles. A five-gallon bucket of pickled peppers will yield about three gallons of sauce. Bottle the sauce in any available shaker bottle or go online for 5-ounce shaker bottles. Your product does not need to be refrigerated and has a shelf life of years and years.

As an aside, save the pulp reside from the milling process. It keeps well in the refrigerator and can be used in salsa, chili, gumbo, etc. You can also toast it (outside) in a frying pan or use your dehydrator. Once dried, run it through a coffee grinder for a nice dried pepper seasoning. Make sure the coffee grinder is covered with a plastic bag. The stuff is really potent, so you do not want to get it airborne.

"Good stuff comes from chile peppers! Don't let a day go by without them."

Bill Barksdale

Isle of Palms

* * * * *

"Peppers, the hotter the better, I always say! Growing up in Abbeville and now living in Murrells Inlet, I inherited my love for hot peppers honestly. My grandparents, having a large garden, always included a variety of hot peppers, mostly cayenne and jalapenos. I carried on the tradition as an adult with gardens of my own, expanding the varieties to include Anaheim, Tabasco, Thai-Hot, Serrano and the ultimate butt burner, Habanero.

"I've witnessed my mom popping hot peppers in her mouth, glowing red-faced with beads of sweat bleeding from her forehead, then smiling as she popped another in her mouth followed by a good old chunk of homemade Southern cornbread (not that sweet-cake flavored stuff), the real deal.

"So what do I do with these peppers? Eating them freshly plucked from the plant along with any meal (including breakfast) is a requirement of my diet. Pickling the cayenne and jalapenos in vinegar and a mason jar help me survive the winter months. Making a habanero-carrot or cucumber salsa is always a crowd-pleaser. One habanero is used if the general population is partaking, two are used if everyone likes it real hot and a third is added if I'm the only consumer. I always freeze at least one Ziploc of habaneros to have them readily available in the non-growing seasons. Just wash them, freeze them whole and grab them when you need them.

"Tabasco peppers are used for our pepper sauce. Just add vinegar to about 30 or so yellow-red peppers in one of those funny little glass pepper sauce pourers and pour over your turnip greens, collards, cabbage or whatever else tickles your fancy. Replenish the vinegar as needed, keep refrigerated. Use your imagination for the other varieties of hot peppers as they can be interchanged at will. Hot peppers are hot peppers!

"Y'awl keep it hot out there and remember, what goes in the mouth will always go south ..."

Thomas Allen Winn

Murrells Inlet

* * * * *

"I love it hot, had to respond. Moved here from New Orleans last October. Done food and art my whole life, now I paint, exhibiting member of Charleston Art Guild, day job at Whole Foods, produce department. Worked at Commander's Palace in New Orleans along with many other high-end restaurants. Had a recipe printed and reprinted in the New Orleans Times-Picayune — Sweet Potato, Corn and Jalapeno Bisque. I love Cajun and Creole cooking, had crawfish Katrina survivor etouffee last night at my house with a friend, plenty of cayenne.

Personally my favorite is the cayenne, for the flavor.

Chiles are good for you, art is good for you."

Sweet Potato, Corn and Jalapeño Bisque

Makes about 3 quarts

-- 1 tablespoon peanut oil

-- 1 cup chopped onions

-- 1 tablespoon minced garlic

-- 6 medium-size sweet potatoes, preferably Jewel or Beauregard (about 5 pounds), peeled and cut into 1-inch cubes

-- 8 cups vegetable or chicken stock

-- 2 cups fresh or frozen corn kernels

-- 1 to 2 medium-size fresh jalapeño peppers, or to taste, stemmed, seeded and finely chopped

-- 1/4 cup molasses

-- 1 tablespoon kosher salt, or to taste

-- 1/2 teaspoon ground cayenne, or to taste

-- 1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper, or to taste

-- Scant pinch ground cinnamon

-- Finely chopped green onions, green parts only, for garnish

Heat oil about 1 minute in a 6-quart saucepan or Dutch oven over medium heat. Add onions and garlic, and let onions sweat until soft, 2 to 3 minutes. Add potatoes and stock, and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer until potatoes are soft, about 10 minutes.

Remove from heat, and use an electric stick blender to puree mixture while still it is in pan, or puree in a food processor and return mixture to pan. Add to puree the corn, jalapeños and molasses, stirring well. Season to taste with salt, cayenne and black pepper, and add cinnamon. Bring soup to a simmer and serve immediately, garnished with green onions. If making ahead, let soup cool before refrigerating or freezing for later use; garnish with green onions just before serving.

Bruce Culbert Faw

Charleston

* * * * *

Mike White:

"My wife is a Hot Chilehead!

She's originally from Dallas. We lived the past 15 years in El Paso and the desert Southwest before moving to Daniel Island one year ago. We moved here so our three daughters could attend Ashley Hall and we absolutely love Charleston, its people and its great food scene.

Unfortunately, we left the Mexican food capital and have not yet found jalapenos hot enough here in the Lowcountry! I still go back to Texas every month on business and have a standing assignment: Bring home the hot stuff!"

Alice White:

'My husband is quite the prankster! I do love my chiles, mostly jalapenos, daily. I just add fresh chopped jalapenos to most of my food. Living in Texas all my life, and 15 years of it on the border of Texas/Mexico, I do love spice!"

Mike and Alice White

Daniel Island

* * * * *

"What do chile peppers mean to me? Success.

"Health: A few years ago I ballooned up about 35 pounds and my cholesterol got way too high. My doctor sentenced me to the Bataan Death March of a low-fat — read low-taste — diet. I discovered if I turned up the heat, I could turn down the fat. I took up cooking and chile peppers are a staple of every recipe I make. My weight and cholesterol are back to normal but, much to my wife's dismay, I still use chiles every day. She says my dishes have wonderful aromas but she can't eat anything I cook.

"Gardening: I've tried to grow tomatoes, watermelons, bell peppers, onions, corn, you name it. The plants thrive but they never produce. The one thing I can flat grow is a pepper. We've got cayenne, jalapeno and habanero peppers in our little garden, which, despite its size, gives me more peppers than I can eat. After all, one habanero goes a long way.

"And yes, I do have a tie festooned with jalapenos.

"This dish fits all the criteria for my kitchen: it is relatively low-fat, fast and easy to make, and has very little cleanup. I also think it tastes good. Technically it probably shouldn't be called a tapenade because it has no capers or anchovies but the recipe started there and evolved. The jalapenos and jerk sauce give it some kick. I usually make a side of rice to soak up all the juices."

Roby's Tapenade Tilapia with a Twist

Serves 2

-- 1 medium onion, chopped

-- 1 medium red bell pepper, chopped

-- 2 jalapenos (chopped)

-- 1/2 cup sun-dried tomatoes, chopped

-- 1/2 cup olives, pitted and chopped

-- 1/4 cup cilantro, chopped with stems removed

-- 2 tablespoons garlic cloves, minced

-- 1/4 cup Jamaican jerk sauce

-- 2 tilapia filets, about 1/2 pound each

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.

Chop the first 6 ingredients and mix together in a bowl. Stir in minced garlic and jerk sauce.

Spray the tilapia filets with non-fat cooking spray.

Lay each one on a sheet of aluminum foil. Cover thoroughly with the vegetable mixture. Fold the foil to make a sealed pouch for each fish.

Bake for 30 minutes or until fish flakes with a fork.

Roby Hill

James Island

* * * * *

"My husband and I are serious chile pepper people. For our first anniversary (12 years ago) we went to Savannah and got matching chile pepper tattoos (my first!). Our kitchen is white with chile pepper stuff everywhere! From lights to dishes and everything in between. We don't go so far as to take our own sauce in restaurants but we are likely to ask for the hot instead of the regular sauce that is automatically put on the table. I do, however, make my own pepper jelly, which is good on a lot of different foods.

"As it just so happens, I wore my chili pepper earrings to work today! How perfect!"

Tanya Richburg

James Island

* * * * *

"I am a chilehead. I don't have any pepper ties or pepper boxers but I try to eat something hot at every meal. I grow Tabasco, jalapeno and cayenne peppers in my back yard. I also have a small collection of hot sauces. I can't claim the hottest bragging rights, but I can hold my own when it comes to hot. I'll eat until sweat pours off my bald head.

"I have one co-worker that can hang with me. We like the hottest that Buffalo Wild Wings and Kickin' Chicken have to offer. Our other co-workers have tried to keep up with us but they all have cut and run when we break out the truly hot stuff. When we go to the Mexican restaurants we have to ask for the "hot" salsa. No, what they normally serve isn't the good stuff.

"My wife thinks I am crazy for, as she says, punishing myself, but I just love it hot. It doesn't matter if it's peppers, sauces, or tons of black pepper, I just gotta have it when I eat. My two little girls are always telling people that Shaggy, Scooby Doo, and my Daddy say " mo hotter, mo better," which by the way is the name of a company that sells hot sauces.

"Well that is my story, I am a chilehead."

Jimmy Godfrey

Goose Creek

* * * * *

"My name is Kushal Badhwar and I'm a true chilehead. I grow my own from seeds purchased from The Chili Pepper Institute at New Mexico State University. Seeds for growing are the only way you can get the Bhut Jolokia (ghost pepper) in the States. I learned about them from an article a few years ago in The Post and Courier. I eat raw peppers with every meal and, of course, couldn't wait to try them (the Bhut Jolokia) even though they have 1 million Scoville units and I can only eat a small amount at a time. I also have about 50 different bottles of hot sauce and I'm always looking for hotter ones to try."

Kush Badhwar

West Ashley



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