Melissa Haneline
The Post and Courier

61 Bistro Grill

When chef Thierry Goulard left Mia's, his legion of fans e-mailed this paper curious to learn where they could track him down. It was not long before we learned the former chef at Chez Fish and Mia's had set up his stove at 61 Bistro Grill, which shares space with Nathan's Deli. So, by day it is a "New York" accent that graces the foods; by night, "parlez-vous Francais?"

It does make for a strange transformation, and that is the problem with the space. Remnants of its "day job" as a deli cast long evening shadows as the restaurant lights its candles, brings out the dried flower arrangements and camouflages deli life with wooden screens and shutters.

The space could benefit from an overall refreshment. Its hard work as a deli has taken its toll on walls, woodwork and restroom facilities.

61 Bistro Grill is a restaurant in the process of discovery; but it was clear at the time of our visit that it has struck a favorable note with its diners, returning with family or friends.

The menu is nicely balanced with fish, fowl and meats. The entrees are accompanied by a starch of some kind and an appropriate sauce or vegetable. A selection of side dishes feature "mac and cheese," french fries, ratatouille (a classic French vegetable casserole of eggplant, zucchini, tomatoes, garlic, herbs and olive oil) and grilled asparagus. Sides are $2.95; the grilled asparagus $3.25.

The special sheet featured a soup, salad, appetizer and selection of entrees. This allows Goulard to expand his staple menu options and also take advantage of the season.

Appetizers range from escargot, Caprese Napoleon, crab salad, calamari, potato pancakes with goat cheese and chop-chop salad. Prices range from $3.95-$6.95.

The crab salad ($5.95) was a favorite at Mia's and it has made the journey intact. Not much is done to the crabmeat, which is lightly bound with mayonnaise, seasoned with salt and pepper, topped with a bright green fan of asparagus slices and plated on a tomato vinaigrette, garnished with bits of tomato and chives. Light, refreshing and satisfying.

The chop-chop ($3.95) tosses a variety of greens, cuts them into a broad chiffonade, naps them with a balanced vinaigrette emulsion - classic French with a contemporary twist. Portion and perkiness rate high marks.

The bread is served warm with triangles of sweet butter topped with chives. The warming accents the flavors in the crust and the butter easily gilds its yeasty taste with sweetness.

The wild Alaskan salmon ($14.95) was competently cooked, served on a bed of mashed Yukon gold potatoes and a beurre blanc sauce (white butter sauce) flavored with mustard. Mustard marries so well with salmon. This dish was not only a winner in taste and texture but the generous portion size for the price point and quality made this a menu keeper.

The rack of lamb at $17.95 also scores high for the price/value quotient. Three frenched lamb rib chops (frenched means that any meat, gristle, fat and tendon is scraped clean from the bone) are served with a medley of roasted squash chunks, a reduced demi-glace (a sauce cooked down to a syrup of concentrated flavors) and those same mashed potatoes. The chops' sweet, gamey flavor was balanced by the mellow potatoes and tender-crisp squash chunks.

Expect to see fish and chips, scallops in beurre blanc sauce, seafood linguine, steak au poivre and coq au vin on the menu at 61 Bistro Grill. The workhorses of French cuisine, along with a taste of the Lowcountry and seasonal seafood, are all finding a home with this talented chef.

Desserts were tiramisu and crme brulee ($4.50). We tried the latter and found its creamy confection of sweet vanilla custard topped with a crisped sugar shell simple but satisfying. The two options, made in-house, were not the seasonal desserts we would expect but there was no faulting the execution of our choice.

The food is cooked to order; the staff is minimal - so there were long pauses between courses, service and check. You will find the staff most cordial and they make a point to spend time at each table.

There does remain the disconnect of the space.

Bring your patience and your vin ordinaire and you won't be disappointed.