Sizzling skewers
Kebabs let holiday cooks get creative and think outside the burger box
Tips for kebabing
--Metal or bamboo skewers? Both are useful, says Andrea Chesman, author of "The New Vegetarian Grill." Metal is best for vegetables that take longer to cook because the metal conducts heat and cooks the vegetables from inside out. Bamboo is better for delicate, quick-cooking items.
--Pre-soak bamboo skewers at least 30 minutes in water so they don't burn.
--Use two parallel skewers rather than one to prevent slippery foods such as raw chicken from spinning when the skewer gets turned.
--Long, sturdy rosemary twigs can be used as skewers if stripped of the leaves, except for a couple of inches at the tip.
--For beef kebabs, Cook's Illustrated's favorite cut is a top blade steak, sometimes known as a blade or flat-iron steak; remove the line of gristle down the middle. It's beefy, well-marbled and economical. Top sirloin, also called a boneless shell sirloin steak, is its No. 2 choice.
--For lamb kebabs, Cook's Illustrated recommends using a boneless leg; for pork, boneless center-cut chops; for chicken, boneless thighs or breasts; for seafood, firm fish such as salmon, swordfish or tuna are best, although large shrimp are fine, too.
--Meats should be cut uniformly in 1- to 2-inch cubes.
--Pick vegetables and fruits that are firm and grill-friendly, such as mushrooms, onions, bell peppers, zucchini or yellow squash, apples, peaches, pears or pineapple. Time the kebab by how long the meat or seafood needs to cook. Precook the vegetables if you must or cook skewers of meat or seafood separately from the vegetables.
--Beware of acid: Acidic marinades, such those containing citrus juice or vinegar, will "cook" meat or seafood before it hits the grill and make the texture mushier. One way to avoid that and still get the flavor is by using an oil-based marinade, then squeezing a little lemon or lime juice over the kebabs after they come off the grill.
Like flying Old Glory or watching fireworks, firing up the grill has become the celebratory thing to do on the Fourth of July.
Two different polls indicate a large majority of Americans will be cooking out Friday, making Independence Day the most popular grilling holiday of the year. Weber's annual survey puts the number at 86 percent; the Hearth, Patio & Barbecue Association says it's 69 percent.
On the grill, you almost never go wrong with hamburgers or hot dogs, of course, but sometimes we like to expand our horizons. This year, we're keen on kebabs — Turkish for "skewered roast meat" — for four reasons:
--Impress for less. Gas pumping your wallet dry this summer? Kebabs don't look or taste like budget foods, but they can be, with smart shopping. Some less-pricey cuts of beef or lamb, chicken thighs vs. breasts (thighs are more succulent, anyway) are excellent choices for kebabs. Also, take advantage of in-season vegetables and fruits, such as zucchini and yellow squash, or local seafood, which typically are at their lowest prices of the year.
Plus, smaller amounts of protein made into kebabs tend to go a longer way than one big piece of meat per person.
--Shabby chic. Across the globe, kebabs are one of the quintessential street foods. In your backyard, it's where the American grill meets the world. Kebabs' chunky, colorful morsels are finger-food casual, yet sophisticated at the same time. Serve them on a large platter atop a mound of couscous or rice for maximum impact.
--Mix and match. Tap into your culinary creativity with any number of marinades or seasonings and different combos of meats or seafood and veggies. However, keep in mind to skewer foods with compatible cooking times.
--Sizzling food: A stick reminds us of sparklers.
Four for the Fourth
Here are a few kebab recipes to consider for Fourth of July entertaining. Also see the accompanying "tips" information for other suggestions and ideas.
Lamb is the most traditional meat for shish kebabs. This skewer-and-relish recipe with Grecian flavors also incorporates a homegrown favorite, peaches.
The recipe is adapted from "Grill It!" by Chris Schlesinger and John Willoughby (DK Publishing, 2008, $25).
Lamb and Peach Skewers With Cucumber-Feta Relish
Serves 4
For the skewers:
2 pounds boneless leg of lamb, cut into 1-inch cubes
2 ripe but firm peaches, pitted and cut into eighths
2 red bell peppers, cored, seeded and halved, each half quartered
1 red onion, peeled and halved, each half quartered
1/4 cup olive oil
1 tablespoon minced garlic
1 tablespoon dried oregano
Kosher salt and freshly cracked black pepper to taste
For the relish:
1 cucumber, peeled and diced small
8 ounces feta cheese, diced medium
1/4 cup roughly chopped fresh mint
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
Kosher salt and freshly cracked black pepper to taste
Build a fire in your grill. When the coals are all ignited, the flames have died down, and the temperature is medium-hot, you're ready to cook.
Combine the lamb, peaches, red peppers, onion, oil, garlic, oregano, and salt and pepper in a large bowl and toss gently. Thread the lamb, peach, red pepper and onion alternately onto skewers, place on the grill directly over the coals, and cook until the vegetables are tender and the meat is just done (4-5 minutes per side for rare). To check for doneness, poke the lamb with your finger to test its firmness: If it's rare, it will feel like the fleshy area between your thumb and index finger. Well-done feels firm, like your hand at the base of the thumb. If you're unsure, cut into one of the cubes and check that it is slightly less done than you like it, to account for carryover cooking.
While the skewers cook, combine the relish ingredients in a medium-sized bowl and toss gently to combine.
When the skewers are ready, transfer them to a platter and serve, passing the relish on the side.
Dishes in Williams-Sonoma's "Grilling" cookbook, part of a 10-book collection by the well-known retailer, have an elegant touch but are generally uncomplicated. The book is illustrated with beautiful photographs of each dish. These chicken and shrimp recipes are adapted from the book.
Chicken Satay With Peanut Sauce
4 servings
1/2 cup peanut oil or vegetable oil
Juice of 1 lime
4 cloves garlic, minced
1/4 cup chopped green (spring) onions, including tender green parts
2 tablespoons peeled and minced fresh ginger
2 tablespoons soy sauce
1 teaspoon Asian chile oil or sauce, or to taste
1 pound boneless, skinless chicken thighs, trimmed of fat and cut into 1-inch chunks
1 1/2 cups white rice, cooked according to package directions, for serving
Peanut Sauce (recipe follows) for serving
8 wooden skewers, soaked for 30 minutes, or metal skewers
To make the marinade, mix together the oil, lime juice, garlic, green onions, ginger, soy sauce and chile oil in a small bowl.
Put the chicken chunks on a baking dish or zippered plastic bag and pour the marinade over. Cover or seal and let sit, turning occasionally, for up to 2 hours at room temperature or overnight in the refrigerator. If refrigerated, remove from the refrigerator 30 minutes before grilling.
Prepare a charcoal or gas grill for direct grilling over medium-high heat.
Remove the chicken from the marinade, pat dry and thread onto the skewers. Grill the skewers directly over medium-high heat, turning once, until well browned, 4-5 minutes on each side. Check for doneness by cutting into a piece of chicken. It should show no pink at the center.
Serve the skewers over the cooked white rice, topped with warm peanut sauce.
Variations: Pork tenderloin or beef flank steak may be used in this recipe.
Peanut Sauce
2 tablespoons peanut oil or vegetable oil
1/4 cup chopped green (spring) onions, including tender green parts
1/2 cup creamy peanut butter
1/2 cup chicken stock or canned low-sodium broth
1 teaspoon sugar
Juice of 1/2 lemon
1 tablespoon soy sauce
1/4 cup chopped peanuts
Asian chile sauce to taste
Heat oil in a nonaluminum saucepan over medium-high heat. Add the chopped green onions, and saute until translucent, 2-3 minutes. Stir in the peanut butter, chicken stock or broth, the sugar, lemon juice, soy sauce and the peanuts. Simmer over low heat for 10 minutes, stirring often. Add Asian chile sauce to taste.
Shrimp With Lemon-Garlic Butter
Makes 4 main-course servings or 8 appetizers
Olive oil or vegetable oil for coating
For the spice rub:
1 tablespoon sweet paprika
1 tablespoon garlic powder
1 teaspoon lemon pepper or freshly ground black pepper
2 teaspoons salt
24 large shrimp, peeled and deveined
For the lemon-garlic butter:
1/2 cup salted butter
Finely grated zest of 1 lemon
Juice of 1 lemon
4 cloves garlic, minced
1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper, or more to taste
16 wooden skewers, soaked for 30 minutes, or metal skewers
Prepare a charcoal or gas grill for direct grilling over high heat and oil the grill rack.
To make the spice rub, mix together the paprika, garlic powder, lemon pepper and salt in a small bowl.
Coat the shrimp with oil and sprinkle generously with the spice rub. Curl up 1 shrimp, tucking the tail end inside, and thread onto 2 parallel skewers. Repeat with the remaining shrimp, threading 3 shrimp on each pair of skewers.
To make the lemon-garlic butter, melt the butter in a small saucepan over low heat, then stir in the lemon zest and juice, garlic and cayenne. Pour half of it into a bowl to use for basting and keep the rest warm.
Grill the shrimp directly over high heat, turning once and basting once or twice with the lemon-garlic butter, until evenly pink and opaque throughout, 3-4 minutes on each side. Do not overcook.
Transfer the skewers to a platter. Pour the reserved lemon-garlic butter over the shrimp and serve immediately.
This recipe, adapted from "The New Vegetarian Grill" by Andrea Chesman (Harvard Common Press, 2008), features okra and other summer vegetables that are bathed in a flavorful Middle Eastern marinade and served atop couscous. A yogurt-based sauce completes the dish.
Couscous With Grilled Vegetable Kabobs
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon sweet or hot paprika
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
8 ounces okra, trimmed
1 medium-size yellow summer squash, halved lengthwise and sliced 3/4-inch thick
1 red bell pepper, cubed
1 green bell pepper, cubed
1 1/2 cups instant couscous
2 1/4 cups boiling water
Grilled Onion Dip (recipe follows)
Combine the cumin, paprika, cinnamon, salt, pepper, lemon juice and olive oil in a large bowl. Mix well. Add the vegetables and toss to coat.
Prepare a medium fire in the grill.
Thread the okra, summer squash and pepper onto skewers. Grill the kabobs, turning occasionally, until the vegetables are tender and grill-marked, about 10 minutes.
While the kabobs are cooking, combine the couscous and boiling water in a saucepan or heatproof bowl. Cover tightly and set aside.
Fluff the couscous with a fork and transfer to a large serving platter or individual serving plates. Place the kabobs on the couscous and serve, passing the onion dip on the side.
Grilled Onion Dip
3 onions, thinly sliced
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 1/2 cups plain yogurt
1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley
2 tablespoons chopped fresh mint, or 2 teaspoons dried
Salt
Prepare a medium-hot fire in the grill with a lightly oiled vegetable grill rack in place.
Toss the onions with the olive oil. Grill the onions, tossing frequently, until well-browned and tender, about 10 minutes.
In a medium-size bowl, combine the onions with the yogurt, parsley, mint and salt to taste. Let stand for at least 30 minutes before serving to allow the flavors to develop.
Teresa Taylor is the food editor. Reach her at food@postandcourier.com or 937-4886.


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