LUNCH COUNTER

Po' Boys

Marla Cavallaro is from Connecticut instead of Cajun country, but her Hollywood restaurant is flavored with a healthy dose of the bayou.

And of course, her po' boys are a featured item. The signature sandwiches come in four types: oyster ($7.75), shrimp ($6.95), flounder ($6.75) and crawfish ($8.25). Cavallaro dresses them with tartar sauce or cocktail sauce, and a whole mess of condiments (should you wish).

We can speak for the oyster po'boy, the bivalves gently fried and plucking apart easily on soft hoagies. It's not Louisiana French bread, but the rolls are quite good.

Much of the menu is a smorgasbord from the fryer, including the shrimp, flounder, oyster and crawfish platters (combo of two for $11.25, combo of three for $13.95). Po' Boys also makes an appetizer called Cajun Mudbugs ($8.25), hot and spicy, breaded crawfish tails with tartar sauce.

Another popular seller: Po' Boys' half-pound cheeseburger ($6.75), stacked with lettuce, tomato, onion, mustard, mayo and ketchup. All the sandwiches come with crinkle-cut fries dusted in Cajun seasoning.

The cheese sticks ($6.50) are hand cut and breaded, and the wings coated in any of 13 different sauces. If you like the wings at Famous Joe's on Savannah Highway, you'll like these, too. Cavallaro owns both joints.

With pool tables, a scattering of dollar bills stapled to the ceiling, and football soon on television, Po' Boy's makes a good home for Hollywood homebodies and anyone else.

Po' Boys

Address: 6251 S.C. Highway 162, Hollywood.

Phone: 889-4988.

Hours: Mon.-Sat., 11:30 a.m.-2 a.m.