Autumn calls for simple pleasures, soup being the proper course for the palate.

Co-owners husband and wife Tracy and Suzie Allen opened Ladles Homemade Soups nearly a month ago in the Bi-Lo shopping center at the corner of S.C. Highway 61 and Bees Ferry Road in West Ashley. Joining them is chef Jason Dalter, whose culinary career includes stints with J. Bistro and Dog and Duck.

Cheers for the trio, furnishing a collection of savory soups, the menu well-executed and adroitly planned.

Ladles offers more than 60 kinds of soups and more than 10 fresh kinds daily. Pick from any number, such as the BLT with chunky tomato portions, basil, crunchy bacon and shards of green lettuce. Or try the loaded potato, the rich, creamy broth accentuated with bacon, cheddar cheese, green scallions and a touch of sour cream.

Classic dishes include clam chowder, French onion, Italian wedding and minestrone, the other, more daring options personified by turkey tarragon, spiced mussels, melon and basil (chilled cantaloupe and basil) and caramelized three onion, chocked with white onions, leeks and shallots.

A bowl costs $4.95, a quart $9.50, soup and sandwich $6.95. We tried a good, cool turkey cucumber sandwich with cream cheese. But we had an even better grilled cheese sandwich, made with cheddar, red onions and crispy bacon strips on smooth, buttery bread.

Alas, the focus is set on soup, with an endless bowl, refillable with any of the soups, running $7.95.

One quibble: Akin to wine, it'd be great if Ladles offered flights of soups in smaller containers. That way, diners could try more of the restaurant's yummy varieties without filling up after a bowl or two.

Address: 125 Bees Ferry Road

Phone: 769-9800

Hours: 10 a.m.-8 p.m. Mon.-Sat.