Updated 'Med' still feels like home

One address in South Windermere Shopping Center has restaurant blood running though its timber.

For nearly 50 years, 90 Folly Road Blvd. has housed a restaurant of some kind.

Of late, it had been the Med Deli, now doing business as the Med Bistro after being purchased by Joseph "Buzzy" Newton III and his wife, Rebecca, from Judy Anagnos.

Cut from the "leave well enough alone" cloth, the Newtons redecorated, replenished and replaced but they were committed to keeping the soul of the "Med" intact.

This included continuing to provide gallery space for artists and a venue for musicians to share their talents with the diners.

Matte-black booths provide contrast to the brushed aluminum finish of the tables and chairs. A swath of paper acts as your place mat, which your server autographs, and crayons are provided to release your inner Chagall.

A full-service bar provides a broad spectrum of libations and also a spot to dine, which is needed on busy weekend evenings.

The Med Bistro continues to serve lunch and that seems to be a strong suit for its kitchen. Offerings include hefty deli sandwiches, such as a Reuben anointed with Russian dressing and dripping with tart sauerkraut juices. There also are substantial wraps (some available on the dinner menu), burgers, and the signature black bean soup.

The dinner menu features a special sheet with a daily soup, fish and pasta.

The menu dabbles in the Mediterranean with mussels ($9.95), arugula and caprese salads (both $7.95), pastas and parmesans ($16.95). Greece is reflected in hummus ($7.95) and the house bread is pita wedges served with a black olive tapenade.

Asia drifts onto the menu with Tuna and Wasabi Mayonnaise ($10.95), Vegetable Stir Fry with Spicy Broth ($10.95, $12.95), Tuna in a Nori Crust with Soy Butter ($21.95) and Duck with Baby Bok Choy and Soy Jus ($18.95).

The flavors and ingredients of the Lowcountry are equally represented with crab, grouper, butterbeans, greens, ham, pork, bacon and fried green tomatoes.

Med Bistro is the kind of place sure to please family and friends. The staff is personable, the music low key and the menu diverse. Plus, when you can go to a shopping center location and purchase bread from Normandy Farms Bakery, visit the West Ashley Library, have lunch or dinner at Med Bistro and then grocery shop at Earth Fare — well, how good does it get?

Vegetarians will enjoy the Grilled Vegetable Terrine, meat and potato lovers will chow down on the Filet Mignon ($27.95) served with Brie-whipped potatoes, portobello mushrooms, asparagus and sauce "Dianne" or the Pork Chops ($19.95) with cheddar and bacon whipped potatoes, green beans and apple butter "jus."

The lasagna ($13.95, $15.95) is sauced with classic Bolognese, ravioli are plumped with butter beans and corn ($12.95, $14.95) and penne, fettuccini and angel hair expand the pasta choices.

We commend Med Bistro for providing a choice of portion sizes in their pastas; for offering complete entrees with side dishes above and beyond the normal fare; for a starter menu that can complement a bottle of wine or a few beers for friends just wanting to meet for a drink and listen to live music.

We did, however, find restraint or temerity in the seasonings at dinner. Our caesar salad tasted little of the anchovy, garlic or Parmigiano-Reggiano that defines this salad and the house salad ($6.95) was missing its Gorgonzola cheese. The antipasti ($7.95) was a tossed "salad" of roasted red peppers, soppressata, salami, mozzarella with an emulsified garlic "vinaigrette" that tasted nary of garlic. Our server could have advised us, as we were expecting a traditional antipasti platter for our appetizer. Salad (or a cup of soup) also comes with the entrees.

That being said, the portions are more than ample, the value and variety are what any neighborhood craves.

The staff work in tandem and assist the kitchen in moving the orders to the diners and clearing the tables.

The busing is so efficient that if you put your fork down an enthusiastic server is ready to quickly dispense of your dish.

Our server was friendly and efficient but weak in the knowledge of ingredients, preparations and the temperatures of the side dishes. For example, is the grilled vegetable salad hot or cold? And the same for the corn and crab? Both are salads that accompanied entrees.

The Newtons have been tweaking Med Bistro for the past four months. We are confident that with their influence, chef Todd Garrigan will turn his passion and desire into a destination dinner location that will surely delight.

After all, this triumvirate has restaurant DNA running through them — the perfect partnership for 90 Folly Road Boulevard's past and future.

Med Bistro

Neighborhood Favorite

Phone: 766-0323.

Address: 90 Folly Road Blvd., Charleston.

Food: ***

Service: ***

Atmosphere: *** 1/2

Price: $-$$.

Costs: Appetizers, $7.95-$14.95; salads, $6.95-$14.90; dinner sandwiches, $8.95-$10.95; pastas, $10.95-$16.95; entrees, $13.95-$27.95; kids menu, $4.95; desserts, $4.95.

Bar: Full-service bar, Blue Moon and Yuengling on draft; nice selection of imports; modest American brews; limited Mediterranean wine selections; nicely balanced wine list arranged in order of lightness and complexity.

Hours: 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Mon.-Sat., lunch and dinner; 10 a.m.-3 p.m. Sunday brunch.

Decibel Level: Moderate at the time of our visit, which included live music performances.

Vegetarian Alternatives: Yes.

Parking: Strip mall parking lot.

Other: Live music Thursday through Sunday brunch; local artists' work displayed and artwork available for purchase; outdoor seating when weather appropriate; kids menu; carry-out.

Web site: Under construction.

Restaurant facts: Rating criteria include quality and presentation of food, service and ambiance, while taking into consideration the type of restaurant — elegant, night out or neighborhodd favorite.

what the stars mean: * Fair, ** Average, *** Good, **** Excellent, ***** Extraordinary

price: $ least expensive, $$$$$ most expensive