Long live the French dip.

And long live Booyah Wings and Cafe, one of North Charleston’s newest restaurants.

Back in an April Lunch Counter, we told you about JGJ’s and its famous French dip sandwich as concocted by Kevin Ryan, a veteran of North Charleston area kitchens best-known for his work at the old Palmetto Pub & Brew House on Ashley Phosphate Road.

Sadly, JGJ’s closed its doors, but Ryan has moved on, or, more fittingly, moved over, to Booyah as a co-owner.

The restaurant sits just yards away from JGJ’s, taking up a corner nook of the Piggly Wiggly shopping center on Rivers Avenue

Formerly occupied by the Filipino Cafe & Bakery, Booyah has been freshened up and decluttered; the restaurant’s presence bolstered by a large, electric blue stuffed toy bulldog keeping watch by the front door.

As for Ryan’s French dip ($8.99), it’s similar to his work at JGJ’s, the meat hand-shaved, the melted provolone perfect, the roll a toasty golden brown and the au jus addictive. It’s so good it’s about the only item on the menu without a description — it really wouldn’t do it justice.

Of course, the wings also deserve consideration, available in numbers of six ($4.99) to 100 ($62.99), and in both wet and dry varieties with such flavors as roasted garlic and red pepper, spicy sweet chili, garlic butter and more typical choices like hot, ranch, barbecue and Caribbean jerk.

Big half-pound specialty burgers ($6.49-$7.49), large salads ($5.49-$7.99), and reuben and club sandwiches ($7.99) also warrant mention, though it’s the French dip that keeps me coming back, no matter the location.