When I reviewed Cainhoy Cookin' Depot back in May, I was very impressed by the food, including a saucy shrimp-and-biscuit bowl and a generous platter of pickles, devilled eggs and country ham. But I was considerably less taken with the counter-service set-up:

"The antiseptic strip-mall restaurant doesn't even try on the service and ambiance fronts," I grumbled.

Apparently I wasn't the only customer to reach that conclusion. According to an e-mail from the Wando restaurant, "Due to numerous requests for more of a full table service, we are adding the full table service for supper beginning every day at 5 p.m."

Under the new format, which kicks off tomorrow, lunch service will continue to be conducted via the counter. At dinnertime, though, patrons will have an assigned server to fetch their utensils; explain complex dishes and pour wine.

The schedule shift will be accompanied by an enhancement of the specials menu.

"The nightly specials will feature a focus on local seasonal seafood with our Southern influences," the e-mail promises.

Cainhoy Cookin' Depot is located at 1190 Clements Ferry Road. For more information, call 216-8299 or visit cainhoycookindepot.com.