Wednesday's the first day of service at Brasserie Gigi, the Frenchy successor to Mercato, which closed in January.

Chef Frank McMahon of sister restaurant Hank's Seafood is emphasizing classic bistro plates featuring Southern ingredients: The dinner menu lists sauteed North Carolina trout, fried oyster salad and shrimp provencal.

Other dishes are straight-up French, such as escargot, salad nicoise and steak frites. Visual touches with a French accent include servers in starched white aprons, a Parisian-style zinc bar and red serving ware from Le Creuset.

Brasserie Gigi, 102 N. Market St., is open every day for lunch and dinner. For more information, call 722-6393 or visit brasseriegigi.com.