Leaving aside anything made with powdered eggs, I've never met an egg dish I didn't like. But at the tippy top of my list of favorites is the edible magic trick known as the souffled omelet.

The magic is built into the whites of the egg. A three-egg omelet made the usual way comprises a substantial meal for one person. But a souffled omelet made with three whole eggs, plus two whites, makes the traditional omelet look like a midget and is more than enough for two people.

Though I personally have never wavered in my partisanship, eggs have shown up now and again as a target of the food police. Eggs are high in cholesterol!

Happily, the most recent studies question whether the sort of cholesterol found in eggs is what we need to be worried about. And, cholesterol aside, eggs are a terrific source of protein, vitamins and antioxidants, and all at about 77 calories per egg. In this recipe, the extra egg whites contribute more protein to the mix with very few extra calories.

In a nod to Greek omelets, this recipe stars spinach and feta cheese. Of course, you're welcome to swap in any kind of sauteed greens and any kind of lean-ish cheese. But whatever you do, don't leave out the grated lemon zest. It brightens up the whole dish.

By the way, when it's time to clean out the fridge, a souffled omelet is the perfect wrapper for leftover vegetables. Ditto for leftover bits of cheese, though you'll probably want to bulk up the omelet with veggies to start, then add the cheese as an accent.

This recipe serves two. To make enough for four people, prepare a double batch, pour it into two medium skillets, then bake them in the oven at the same time.

Greek-Style Souffled Omelet

Start to finish: 30 minutes

Servings: 2

Ingredients

11/2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided

5 ounces baby spinach

Salt and ground black pepper

2 ounces feta cheese, finely crumbled

3 large whole eggs, separated, plus 2 egg whites

2 teaspoons grated lemon zest

Chopped fresh dill, to garnish

Directions

Heat the oven to 450 degrees.

In a large skillet over medium, heat 1 tablespoon of the oil. Add the spinach and a pinch of salt and cook, stirring, until the spinach is wilted. Sprinkle the feta on top and set aside.

In a medium bowl, whisk the egg yolks with a hefty pinch of salt, several grinds of pepper and the lemon zest, until the mixture is fluffy, about 4 minutes.

In a separate bowl, use an electric mixer to beat the egg whites with a pinch of salt until they hold soft peaks; stir one fourth of the whites into the egg yolks, then fold the remaining whites into the yolks gently, just until they are incorporated.

In a 10-inch nonstick skillet with an oven-safe handle over medium, heat the remaining 1/2 tablespoon of oil. Pour the egg mixture into the skillet, gently spread it evenly.

Place the skillet in the oven on the middle shelf and bake until it is puffed and almost cooked through, about 3 minutes. Meanwhile, reheat the spinach mixture over medium heat, stirring.

Remove the omelet from the oven and make an indent down the center with a spatula. Spoon the spinach mixture over one-half of the omelet, then use the spatula to fold the other half of the omelet over to cover the filling. | Return the omelet to the oven and bake for another 2 to 3 minutes.

Divide the omelet in half, sprinkle each half with the dill and serve right away.