P.F. Chang's skillfully melds culinary cuisines

P.F. Chang's China Bistro, which began in Scottsdale, Ariz., in 1993, is on its way to having almost as many properties as Qin Shi Huang, the first emperor of a unified China, had terracotta warriors.

Reproductions of these soldiers, as well as their horses, are part of the iconic brand of this venture between Paul Fleming (the "P.F.") and Philip Chiang (the Chang) of P.F. Chang's China Bistro.

You see two of the horses finally ponied up on U.S. Highway 17 in Mount Pleasant after considered deliberation as to their orientation to the building and the highway.

In October, the P.F. Chang collection, as the properties are called, finally came to East Cooper -- all 6,600 square feet of it. The look is modern Asian with more wood used in the coastal design compared with its usual stone facades. It is stylish, high energy and attractive.

The position of the seating is designed intimacy and the inside and outside bar areas are a nod to the localization the franchise does as it enters new territories.

Not one to sit on its laurels, the company has managed to create a signature dining culture that not only has weathered the economy's downturn but continues with new additions to its menu and the targeting of local preferences when it comes into town. For those reasons, we made an exception to our rule of not reviewing restaurant chains.

From the crowds at the Mount Pleasant location, the concept is working. Luckily, they take reservations. And you should make them.

Their Triple Happiness Happy Hour includes beverages priced from $2 to $6 and a delightful menu of dumplings, wraps and rolls along with Asian street tacos and braised and seared spare ribs, all priced from $3.25 to $7.

This is not the cart- driven, authentic fare of San Francisco or New York establishments, but good eats nonetheless.

Kudos for providing nutritional information on the website, having dedicated locations in the kitchens to prepare gluten-free foods, making its own sauces and adding two-bite desserts.

You will receive no prepackaged bright yellow mustard or neon-colored sweet-and-sour packets here. Like a few Japanese companies, P.F. Chang's looks toward "continuous improvement" in its product, and it shows.

Portions are family style and are designed for sharing. In fact, this is the one area where the restaurant stumbles as its high-top tables are too small for that kind of eating.

Chicken in lettuce wraps ($7.75) continues its popularity. The dumplings ($6.25, $7.25) are appropriately chewy, well-seasoned and can be jolted in flavor with the trio of condiments brought to your table. Try the crispy green beans ($6.45) and think of them as your Chinese french fries.

Overall, we did not find the "spicy" foods spicy and the kitchen had a few missteps in execution, such as burned pancakes served with the VIP duck ($19.95) and a gloppy sauce that coated the succulent duck. This dish was accompanied by crunchy and refreshing cucumber ovals and strings of scallions.

New to the menu is grilled fish ($18.95 to $24.95) served with Pan-Asian sauces and simplified preparations.

We passed on the steamed rice, available in brown and white, and shared Dan-Dan noodles ($10.95). These toothsome egg noodles were nicely seasoned with chilies, scallions, garlic and ground chicken. In fact, the noodle dishes bear witness to an early restaurant consultant to the chain, Barbara Tropp, whose scholarly work on Chinese cooking unearthed many treasures. Try the double-pan fried noodles ($9.95 to $11.95) or simple garlic noodles with chile pepper flakes ($6.75).

Family-style soups, won ton ($6.95) and chicken noodle ($7.95), are made to order and I wish they were available by the cup.

Vegetables get their due, but an order of asparagus, Sichuan-style, was stringy, fibrous and tough. All vegetables can be ordered in small or large portions.

The orange shrimp ($15.95) is refreshing with bits of peel. Most of the beef entrees are made with flank steak.

Those following a gluten-free diet will find their options neatly boxed on the menu.

The signature banana spring rolls ($5.95) and the Great Wall of Chocolate are designed for sharing. The mini desserts are carrot cake and cheesecake ($2.25).

P.F. Chang's is not your go-to spot for authentic ethnic, but it has melded culinary cultures and captured the sensory experience of the Orient with measured skill.

Servers are well-trained and there is much management by walking-around. Even when busy, you are not rushed and the staff is patient with your questions.

It is easy to over-order here, but as many of us know, there is nothing better than leftover Asian foods.

The bistro's goals are that of "fan and t'sai," the importance of harmony and balance. That, it accomplishes.