HoM opened this past summer as a “burger boutique and pingpong lounge.” I have to quibble with its name: It is more a burger laboratory where the kitchen explores flavors, textures and combinations.

That being said, the two Petes, Rivas and Smith, have joined the band of burger shops grinding their way from downtown to the suburbs. HoM’s urban feel takes you from the bar to dining booths or to the back room, where a Killerspin table awaits your blade and your backspin.

What’s the beef?

The burgers at HoM are a custom blend of brisket, chuck and short rib. They are among the more flavorful burgers in town, and although the toppings and condiments are creative, you should eat one naked: the burger, not you. It’s love in one bite.

At HoM, they parlay the French field with caramelized onions, Dijon mustard and Swiss cheese ($9). They take a Southern route with a country-fried burger topped with collards, pimiento cheese, Creole tartar sauce and a fried green tomato ($9). And the HoM Wrecker comes with bacon, pepper-jack cheese and fried egg and green tomato chutney. It, along with the Burger Benedicts, brunch clubs and croque madame, put a burger in brunch.

Ground turkey gets a Thanksgiving treatment with cranberry chutney ($8.50), and tofu is fried to a General Tso crispness and topped with Asian slaw and sweet and sour sauce ($8). Vegetarians may enjoy the falafel ($8) or the earth burger ($8), which combines ground beets, peanuts, carrots, sun-dried tomatoes and feta cheese.

At HoM, they “pull” portobello mushrooms into a barbecue sandwich; lamb is ground with curry spices, topped with a Thai-inspired cucumber and carrot relish and gilded with banana guacamole ($9.50). Sloppy Joe goes upscale with braised duck, a lemongrass citrus glaze and nutty arugula spiked with wasabi.

The toppings are as mainstream as lettuce, tomato and American cheese and as innovative as onion Hollandaise sauce, root beer-flavored salad dressing, smoked onion remoulade and using preserved lemons in the quinoa salad ($3.50).

The greenery

The salads shine with their house-made dressings, fresh ingredients and balanced (meaning not drenched) greens. A beet salad ($4.50) generously serves two, and the root beer and rosemary reduced dressing delivered flavor notes of concentrated sorghum and earthy pine.

Fried and sides

The fries are thin cut, and they are served in a bowl that feeds two ($3). Each order comes with your choice of house-made sauces. The Creole tartar and smoky barbecue had good flavor profiles; the roasted garlic mayonnaise was light on garlic.