Treehouses, campsites tranquil settings after journey on lazy Edisto

CANADYS -- In his 1975 book, "Midworld," novelist Alan Dean Foster conjured the notion of a peaceful, "primitive" civilization that made its home entirely in the trees, and whose cultural precepts and philosophies were shaped by that way of life.

Idyllic concept, but a mite uncomfortable on the backside.

Foster did not posit gas grills, padded sleeping lofts or futons, nor appealing riverside views. Carolina Heritage Outfitters does.

The living is decidedly more comfy after a day's paddling when you spend the night at one of the three Edisto River Treehouses operated by the Mount Pleasant-based company. This ain't your granddad's tree- house, nor the one Pop threw together with warped planks, a rickety ladder and a perilous pitch. Though there is no electricity or running water and the restroom facilities are a series of outhouses just up the path, they're luxurious in camping terms, nestled within a wildlife refuge.

Once ensconced, with a campfire crackling and food on the grill (or gas stove), guests are serenaded by the river's soothing "voice" and, soon, the sounds of a nocturnal chorus.

Foster's folk would be envious. Each treehouse is tucked into the woods, out of view of each other and situated by a busily gurgling creek. The two smaller treehouses sleep two to four guests, with the largest of the trio accommodating from four to eight. Each is screened and well-ventilated, with small heaters and a dining deck. Private river access for the treehouses allows you to come and go at will.

But as appealing as a treehouse getaway may be, the main draw is the river, with its serpentine, largely undeveloped shoreline. In canoe or kayak, it's hard not to feel "plugged in" as one drifts lazily on a slow, steady current, whether on misty summer mornings or brilliant, burnished fall afternoons. Mainly, you steer. And Carolina Heritage has you covered there as well.

If you schedule a canoe or kayak trip on a weekday, you're very likely to have the famed blackwater Edisto all to yourself. And unless some nasty headwinds or crosswinds whip up, the most strenuous part of a typical two-day, 24-mile journey is dodging the occasional downed timber.

"To be within an hour of Charleston yet totally immersed in nature and the beauty of the Edisto is more than worth the trip," says Christian Chapman, operations manager at CHO's main outpost at Canadys.

Located across the river from Colleton State Park, home of the Edisto Riverfest each June, the outpost is about an hour from Charleston with an access point one mile north of the intersection of S.C. Highway 61 and U.S. Highway 15. It also may be accessed from Interstate 95, Exit 68 (to highway 61 and 15).

For self-guided overnight trips, costs range from $50-$150 per person, depending on whether one stays in a treehouse, a campsite or on one of the many sand beaches en route. CHO staff drive you and your rented canoe (wide of beam and stable) or kayak upriver to a launch site. From there it's about 12 miles downriver to the Edisto River Refuge, billed as the largest privately held wildlife sanctuary in the state. The refuge harbors basic campsites as well as the treehouses, though the latter are sequestered on their own island.

It's another 11 miles downstream on Day Two to the outpost (where your vehicle remains parked). During the shorter days of autumn and winter, leave yourself some wiggle room when it comes to timing. The first leg takes four to five hours, depending on how energetic you are, and the second leg 3 1/2 to four.

But do yourself a favor and relinquish all anticipation of reaching a "goal." Instead, inhabit the moment. Listen to the river. Take in the wildlife.

CHO also offers guided canoe trips ($88 per person) for groups of four or more, featuring discussions of river ecology, and 10-mile day trips ($30). The latter start in a cypress/tupelo swamp and end at the outpost at Canadys. But staff can help boaters have a deeper experience of the Edisto with sojourns of up to 10 days.

Regardless of the duration, the fully outfitted trips include transportation to the launch site, a canoe or kayak, paddles, personal flotation device and a brief safety orientation. Food and water, blankets and sheets, additional lanterns, foul-weather gear and other items are the paddler's responsibility.

Securing your cargo in zip-top bags and heavy-duty trash bags is a sound idea, if for no other reason that to avoid paddle splatter. In the unlikely event that you capsize, remember that this stretch of the Edisto, the longest free-flowing blackwater river in the southeastern United States, has a shallow, sandy bottom to go along with its (mostly) sandy banks, which also make for fine swimming and picnicking in warmer months.

Take advantage of higher water in the winter to paddle into and explore the numerous enclaves of cypress trees, mostly free of biting insects this time of year.

The 150-acre refuge also sports miles of walking trails, cypress/tupelo swamps and abundant wildlife. Here, you set the pace. Savor it.

For information, call 563-5051, e-mail CarolinaHeritage@gmail.com or visit www.coastalexpeditions.com and www.CanoeSC.com.

Reach Bill Thompson at 937-5707.