Flowertown blooms in the fall
You know the feeling.
That first hint of crisp autumn air delicately piercing our stiflingly humid, unbearably hot, dog days of summer.
In true Southern style, the season often arrives slowly, teasing with a cool day here, a refreshing breeze there, until Charlestonians are perfectly mad for some semblance of an East Coast fall.
Interspersed with the giddiness of the arriving season, there always seems to be a tiny, tugging wistfulness for escape, but thankfully, that doesn't have to be.
Residing in Charleston and its surrounding areas is a vacation in itself. We have the luxury of 70 degree days well into November. Our counties are diverse, and with the changing geography and long histories here, just getting out and exploring can provide a sense of being a tourist in our own town, whether it is McClellanville, Bonneau Beach or the heart of Dorchester County.
Perhaps it was the name, or the area's 300-year-old history as a summer getaway that made me choose our "Flowertown" to the west, Summerville, as a place to linger for awhile. While no longer the whistle-stop that it once was, the shops of the old pine village and the converted train depot are a great place for a leisurely stroll, and some good eating. Only a mile or two away from I-26 and Walmart, the historic district of Summerville has gradually been restored and buildings repurposed as the town has grown from 6,000 some 30 years ago to 33,000 now.
I popped into restaurants and galleries, met locals and shop proprietors and took a tour of historic sites and inns to give you a cheat-sheet for your own adventure, whether you decide to check into a bed and breakfast and stay awhile, or just visit for the day to get in some shopping and dining.
The inns
Check out a quaint bed and breakfast for a real taste of the town. Once a destination for snowbirds escaping cold climates, several of Summerville's century-old inns are still happily accepting guests.
We recommend Linwood Historic Home & Gardens, Flowertown or Tudor Oaks for a nice mix of history and new world accommodations (think architecture with swimming pools and wireless).
If you're spiritually inclined, The Pink Dolphin offers meditation and Reiki in addition to the standard fare of home-cooked meals and cozy rooms.
For a more luxurious experience, you must run to Woodlands Inn. The refurbished 1906 estate is one of only four properties in the United States to receive the Five Star and Five Diamond hotel awards for lodging and dining.
Notable publications such as Travel + Leisure have touted it as a top resort hideaway and dining destination.
To eat and socialize
If you hang out, you have to eat, so try Eva's at 129 S. Main St. for some traditional Southern cooking. Serving the area for more than 50 years, the quaint restaurant looks as if it hasn't been remodeled in decades, and we hope it stays this way. Classic breakfasts of eggs with all the fixin's and heart-stopping lunch meat-and-threes are their specialty. One note: they're only open Monday through Friday.
The weekend warrior alternative is the Single Smile Cafe, also on Main Street. The modern coffee shop offers specialty teas and coffee paired with fresh pastries and bagels. They also have a pretty sweet lunch menu as well.
Or cruise down the avenue to try a gourmet hot dog from Perfectly Franks. The eclectic cafe will wow you with a mind-blowing range of toppings. Specialties include pimento cheese, pineapple, cream cheese, "Aretha Franklin" pulled pork and Dr Pepper BBQ sauce.
Don't overlook Sweetwater Grill as a breakfast or brunch alternative, and there are locations of our favorite restaurants from other areas: Great ones include The Mustard Seed, Red Pepper, Kickin' Chicken and Santi's.
For evenings, try delicious local Italian from Tomatoes. Or if you are not in the mood for pasta, stroll over to The Continental Corner Greek Restaurant on Richardson Avenue. They've been serving heaping plates of Greek deliciousness to appreciative locals since 1973.
Wind down with one of the Woodland Resort's after-dinner drinks in the Pines Bar and Cafe. Starting at 7 p.m. every Friday and Saturday, complimentary live jazz is played. Get there at 8:30 p.m. Friday for a glass of champagne on the house.
Or for a more casual atmosphere downtown, try Montreux for live music and drinks. With an act almost every night, it's no wonder that locals keep this place packed.
If you're more inclined to try a less upscale place, visit Upstairs at the Ice House. Famous for a selection of more than 100 beers and a serious karaoke crowd on Sundays, this place does not disappoint.
Also on Sundays, roll out of bed for brunch at the tea room at This Whole House. The historic cottage house offers a delicious, all you-can-eat brunch spread from 9 a.m.-3 p.m. Proper tea is also available in the afternoon. But a word to the wise -- make reservations. There aren't many tables.
More taste of Summerville
If you want to experience the flavors of Summerville in one spot, try the 9th annual Summerville Taste of the Town which will be held Nov. 7 (it's always the Sunday before Veteran's Day to honor veterans.) It's a celebration of great food, music and the community, centrally located in Azalea Park. This year there will be a special finale performance by the Parris Island Marine Brass Band. Food tickets for individually priced "tastes" are available for purchase; no item will be more than $3.00 (3 tickets). Hint: Local restaurants man the booths so you get a chance to pick your favorites.
Shop 'til you drop
Summerville's charming, historic downtown has sidewalks lined in American flags and outdoor rocking chairs, making you feel as if you've stepped into Andy Griffith's Mayberry.
Adding to the vision is a '50s-era barbershop, small boutiques and one of the oldest pharmacies in South Carolina. The 130-year-old Guerin's is complete with an old-fashioned soda and milkshake station and turn-of-the-century apothecary furniture.
I also loved perusing countless craft stores in the area. Highlights included People Places and Quilts, a sprawling quilting heaven in a refurbished 1800's hardware store. Craft Happy and the Village Knittery are also delightful stops for the arts-inclined.
For souvenirs, Marigold's is not to be missed. The boutique offers beautiful vintage linens, antique furniture and modern, quirky accents. It's merchandised just so that we had to leave before emptying our bank accounts.
Also stop by the Art Central Gallery and Silver Pail Pottery.
More history + nature
Work off your lunch by touring some of the most gorgeous historical churches in the Southeast. We recommend St. Cyril & Methodius. Located in an unassuming theatre and movie hall, you'll almost miss the Russian Orthodox Church if not looking closely.
Also breath-taking are the late 1800's Bishop Pengelley Memorial Chapel, St. Stephen's Reformed Episcopal (built for poor freedman farmers) and the Church of the Epiphany.
For the secular sort, grab a walking brochure from the Visitor's Center to take a self-guided tour of Summerville's historic homes and gardens. Keep in mind that this is an exterior-only self-guided tour.
The good news is that each brochure gives historic information about the structures and garden, so bothering residents isn't necessary.
If you want a little nature in the city, wander through Azalea Park. The 21-acre oasis is home to Summerville's Azalea Festival in the spring. Don't miss the water gardens, butterfly ponds, countless gazebos and sculptures.
Further out
If you're up for a more active adventure and want to combine history and nature, take a drive to Middleton Place Plantation for wildlife kayaking tours, horseback riding and hikes, or touring the historic gardens and house. Bonus: Starting in December, Black Water Cypress swamp tours will be given through the spring.
If you want a full day at Middleton, plan to stay through for a gorgeous dinner in the plantation dining room. Dine on delicacies such as panned quail and beef tenderloin or local classics such as shrimp and grits. Just make sure to call ahead for a reservation.
Theatrical traditions
If you want to take in a show, we suggest heading to the James F. Dean Theatre. There you'll be able to catch local thespian group The Flowertown Players who put on everything from "The Philadelphia Story" to "A Midsummer Night's Dream."
If you go this weekend, they are still staging "Return to the Forbidden Planet," a droll Shakespearean send-up with performances on Friday and Saturday at 8 p.m., a midnight show on Saturday and a final show at 2 p.m. Sunday. Tickets are $20 for adults and $15 for students.
Costumes are allowed -- but no roller skates. There are too many steps in the theatre!
If you are like so many people who have come here, you will find so much to do, you will never want to leave.
Stephanie Harvin of The Post and Courier staff contributed to this story.
