J. Paul'z
J. Paul'z felt like a restaurant designed by a focus group. It took on the mantle of Spain and offered tapas, small plates traditionally sampled on the way to dinner, and made them the meal.
It co-opted the bull as a logo and crafted one more Ferdinand than Osborne.
It hugged the coast of its culinary inspiration and positioned a cozy riad (privacy area) in muted reds and honeyed yellows complete with sofas, ottomans, pillows and soft fabric drapery.
It repurposed doors with intricate carvings, recessing their surface so that their artistry can be seen and enjoyed. And like the ancient Moors, who looked to harmonize man with the natural world, they added willows, reeds, plants, tea lights and votives.
They built arches over their doorways. They applied "Venetian plaster" to the walls, faux painting to the bar and glazing to the trim work. They created texture, depth and mood. And when they were done, they added flat-screen TVs. And sushi. And Buddha. They went shopping at World Market and came home with a tableau that works.
They hired Budd Huber to oversee their program of mixology, and he created a jewel of a back bar. An alchemist's dream of infused vodka with cucumber, citrus limoncello tempered by vanilla, tequila infused with orange, vanilla and pineapple, and Charleston Tea Plantation Tea steeping in vodka with
local mint. The martinis trump the dessert menu, and sangria gets "punched" up with quality ingredients and seasonal fruits.
Gone are the chicken and waffles and fried avocado of J. Paul'z maiden menu. Rockin' the house are small plates of braised short ribs ($14) tendered on goat cheese-flavored mashed potatoes with spinach topped with gremolata; filet mignon ($15) braced by garlic seasoned haricots verts and Gorgonzola butter.
And just like building a restaurant by a focus group, well, they made a menu listening to Alice's Restaurant. You can get almost anything you want: charcuterie and cheese ($12) to enjoy with your wine; a trio of sliders ($11) with rustic chips for your beer. Hummus, tapenade, baba ghanoush, crudites and grilled garlic bread before your flatbread pizzas ($12), macaroni and cheese ($6) for your little ones.
The pasta ($11, $12) sauces are light, and shrimp and grits ($12) get tweaked just enough with Gouda and smoked tomatoes in the sauce to make it a signature dish.
The dips were weak and the charcuterie plate of cheese and salume pales in comparison to what our local chefs are doing these days with pig and salt and time.
The sushi menu is united by cream cheese, an ingredient overused on the menu. Purists will find sashimi ($6/4 pieces) of tuna, eel or salmon. Nigiri ($4/2 pieces) fingers of tuna, eel, salmon, crab or shrimp over rice lacked the lick of sweet and promise of tart that sushi (rice) delivers. Toasted sesame seeds elevate many of the dishes, and the portions lend themselves to table-sharing.
A daily special of a soft crab ($14) dusted with cornmeal was so fresh seawater leached from its lump meat. It was served with grits and surrounded by a succotash of corn, turnips, red beats, edamame and onions. The red beet overpowered this Native American dish, and the key lime glaze had little lime flavor, but that soft crab was first rate.
Executive chef Tracy D. Little has taken over the kitchen. Previous chef Daniel Caruso is up north with the folks at Wegman's. Little is a graduate of Johnson & Wales University (Charlotte) and worked at the Mustard Seed and with chef Fred Neuville at the Fat Hen. Her classic culinary education shows in her recipes and plate presentations.
J. Paul'z may shuffle ingredients and mix culinary metaphors, but it is straight-forward when it comes to managing a place to have fun. Think of this place as a restau-lounge or a lounge-arant. Prepare to micro-dine and enjoy.
J. Paul'z
Cuisine: Global small plates and sushi
Category: Neighborhood Favorite; Night Out
Phone: 795-6995
Location: 1739 Maybank Highway, James Island
Food: ¤¤¤
Atmosphere: ¤¤¤ 1/2
Service: ¤¤¤
Price: $-$$
Costs: Small plates $6-$15, sushi menu $4-$12, sides $4, soups $3-$5, daily specials MP, lunch salads $6-$10, lunch sandwiches $8-$9, lunch entrees $8-market price.
Vegetarian Options: Yes
Bar: Full-service bar, happy hour, infused drinks, specialty Martinis and cocktail menu.
Hours: Lunch 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m., happy hour 4:30-7 p.m. Monday-Saturday, dinner service 5-10 p.m. Monday-Tuesday, 5-11 p.m. Wednesday-Saturday, bar until 2 a.m., closed Sunday.
Decibel Level: Varies, live music.
Parking: Shopping center lot.
Other: Gift cards, catering, private events, Ladies Night, SIN, 25 percent off sushi Thursday nights. Live music Friday and Saturday nights; outdoor patio.
Online: Twitter, Facebook, info@jpaulz.com, www.jpaulz.com.
