Circa 1886 chef puts a modern flair on classic Lowcountry flavors
Marc Collins' story is a bit different than your average chef's.
Growing up in Eerie, Pa., Collins originally dreamed of flying for the Air Force. But plans changed when he needed glasses in high school — to fly in the Air Force, you must have perfect vision. By chance, he attended a culinary vocational class with some friends and discovered a talent and passion for cooking.
He first worked on a private yacht as a chef's assistant and prep cook. He moved to Texas after college and found work in San Antonio. He focused on French cuisine, working at La Mansion Del Rio under French chef Guy Collinet and later at La Louisiane, a French Cajun/Creole restaurant.
In 2001, Collins realized he wanted to be back on the East Coast, and soon found himself in Charleston. Collins lives in Summerville with his wife, Jennifer, and two sons.
As executive chef of Circa 1886 at the Wentworth Mansion, Collins focuses on innovative dishes that paint a picture of life in late-19th-century Charleston.
Since landing the spot as executive chef of Circa 1886, Collins has earned the restaurant a multitude of awards, including the Mobile Four-Star Award and AAA Four Diamond Award. He also earned a nod from Esquire magazine as a Chef to Watch in 2001.
Collins also helped start the BB&T Charleston Food + Wine Festival in 2006, a nationally acclaimed celebration of the Lowcountry's culinary traditions.
Q: What is your first food memory?
A: Mom's pot roast on Sundays after church. We'd all sit down as a family and enjoy it — the smell was just intoxicating.
Q: What kinds of food did you eat growing up?
A: City chicken, a Depression-era dish that isn't actually chicken at all. Instead it's made with pork and veal, I'm assuming because chicken was scarce during the Depression. My mom would make it for me, and I'd eat it on skewers.
Q: What do you like best about the Charleston food scene?
A: For not being a large city, Charleston's food has an incredible amount of quality and depth. It's rare to find that kind of creativity in a city of similar size.
Q: How has the history of Charleston and the Wentworth Mansion during the late 1800s influenced you as a chef?
A: It actually all started with a cookbook that I bought online from San Francisco called "200 Years of Charleston Cooking." Turns out the book came from right here downtown on Church Street. The historic flavors I learned about here found their way into many of my dishes at Circa 1886. My dishes rely on these classic Southern flavors, but also have a modern twist.
Q: What do you feel is your greatest accomplishment as a chef?
A: Personally, coming up with the Charleston Food + Wine Festival. But as a chef, it would have to be achieving Circa 1886's Mobile Four-Star rating.
Q: What is your favorite thing about being a chef?
A: I can be creative, and I don't have to sit in a cubicle every day. I love the instant gratification that comes with being a chef as well, like getting to taste the dishes I create and think, "Wow, that's really good!"
Q: What kinds of dishes do you like to cook for your family?
A: My kids love my pancakes — they can't get enough of them.
Q: Who is your favorite Charleston chef?
A: Bob Waggoner, former executive chef at the Charleston Grill. He actually recommended me when I first came to Charleston and was applying to be chef at Circa 1886. I like his creativity and approach to his food. He's also just a great guy.
Q: Who is your favorite chef outside Charleston?
A: Thomas Keller, whom I consider a pioneer to food in general. Also, Gray Kunz, former chef of Cafe Gray in New York City.
Q: You serve antelope on your menu at Circa 1886, something you don't see on a menu every day. What's the story behind that?
A: Antelope isn't traditionally indigenous to the Lowcountry, so it's a bit unique on our menu. I used to cook with it when I worked in Texas — it's popular in wild-game dinners, which are big down there. It's also something fun to serve on the menu. You'd think antelope would have a similar taste to venison, but surprisingly it's very tender and mild.
Q: What is your favorite ingredient to cook with and why?
A: I love to cook with fruit. On the menu, I try to use them in not-so-traditional ways. For example, I offer a striped bass with watermelon and taro root. The flavor of the watermelon blends with the overall dish, reminding you of a summer picnic.
Q: What do you think sets Circa 1886 apart from other Charleston restaurants?
A: Tucked behind the Wentworth Mansion, we're a little off the beaten path. It's a quieter environment here, where you can enjoy our food as you enjoy your company.
